Schmap Cork Historical Background

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Cork - Historical Background
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Cork Home

The first recorded reference to Cork city can be attributed to the Alexandrine geographer Ptolemy. Writing in 150AD, using information received from Mediterranean shipmasters, he makes mention of a town called “Ivuernis” which many believe to be the first allusion to what would in time become the modern city. In the seventh century the famous monastic settlement associated with St. Finbarr was established. This was in some ways a golden age in Cork's history and for 250 years the Abbey thrived. Dignitaries and scholars from all over Europe came to learn in what was a setting of overwhelming peace. Today the beauty of St. Fin Barre's Cathedral and the motto of University College Cork (“Where Finbarre taught let Munster learn”) are testament to the enduring legacy, both spiritual and cultural, of those times.

Invasion and Occupation

The Vikings, also referred to as Danes and Norsemen, invaded Ireland in about 820. Following their eventual defeat at the Battle of Clontarf in 1014 the Norse survivors continued to live in the separate communities they had established in Cork, Dublin, Limerick, Waterford and Wexford. They and their descendants became known as Ostmen from this time on. 1176 marks the beginning of the Anglo-Norman occupation. Henry II divided most of Munster among two of his men. He retained the “City of Cork” and the “Cantred of the Ostmen” for himself, exempting them from the control of his feudal lords. A wall was built up around the perimeter of the city; it remained for over five hundred years after the Norman occupation.

At the start of the 17th century living conditions in Cork amounted almost to destitution. The defeat of the Irish at Kinsale in 1601 meant that the Crown's authority in Ireland was absolute and colonial outposts such as Cork were no longer needed. The insurrection of 1641 had further disastrous consequences for Cork's inhabitants. In 1664, many were expelled and forced to surrender their possessions and property. Some were allowed return in 1648 but another general expulsion took place in 1649 under Cromwell. To get an idea of the appearance of the city at around this time: it was described by Camden in 1586 as “of oval shape, surrounded by walls and encompassed and intersected by the river, and accessible only by rivers". It had only one straight street (now known as North Main and South Main Streets), about 690 yards long. The city was, on average, about 240 yards wide. East and West of the walls were waterways and marches. As such, most of the modern city is built on reclaimed land. Indeed, the Irish for marsh is corcach and it is from this word that the city derives its name.

Modern Times

The 1880s was a period of great rural instability with impoverished families being evicted in their thousands and the agitators committing vicious reprisals on extortionist Landlords and their agents. Eventually a leader emerged who inspired all of the Nationalist movements to work together in a peaceful pragmatic way -- his name was Charles Stewart Parnell. Parnell was elected MP for Cork in 1880. Parnell's Nationalist Party made significant progress towards achieving its goal of Home Rule for Ireland, but Parnell's own career was cut short by the famous Kitty O'Shea crisis and the fragmentation of the Nationalist movement began again. Arthur Griffith founded Sinn Fein as a monarchist party which envisaged a future for Ireland whereby an Irish parliament would have more power than mere Home Rule but would still retain the British monarch as head of state.

The policies of Sinn Fein changed radically when men like Padraig Pearse joined, young members who wanted nothing less than an independent self-sufficient Gaelic state. It remained a fringe movement until after the 1916 rising when the British authorities executed many of its members. In Cork the Lord Mayor Tomas MacCurtain was shot dead at home in Blackpool in front of his wife by a party of armed men, their faces blackened. MacCurtain's deputy Terence MacSwiney was made Mayor -- also a Commandant in the IRA he was arrested on August 20th 1920 by the crown forces for being in possession of a police cipher and two documents "likely to cause offence to his Majesty". He went on hunger strike in protest at the continuing arrest of democratically elected public representatives. MacSwiney was then transported to Brixton Gaol, where his hunger strike attracted worldwide attention. 300,000 Brazilian Catholics petitioned the Pope to intervene on his behalf. Less than two months after his death, Cork was all but destroyed by the Black and Tans. A special force made up mainly of young unemployed soldiers, the Black and Tans were stationed in Ireland to assist the police in maintaining law and order. The following day, St Patrick's Street was a wasteland; 21 shops were completely destroyed and another 44 were burned to the ground. The total damage was estimated to be £3,000,000. The war soon ended as pressure mounted on Lloyd George; he eventually agreed to meet a Sinn Fein delegation and a Treaty was signed.

Looking Forward

The opening in 2000 of the Jack Lynch Tunnel at the city's limits (travellers to West Cork can now bypass the city-centre) has meant that the amount of traffic through the city has been greatly reduced. This is very important as it paves the way for the redevelopment of Cork's main thoroughfare, St Patrick's Street. Architect and designer Beth Gali, whose most famous project was the transformation of central Barcelona prior to the Olympics, has been commissioned to oversee the operation. Proposals include the widening of the paths and the installation of new streetlights (designed specifically for this project and named "Sarah"). Furthermore, it's possible that Oliver Plunkett Street will soon be made pedestrian.

The last year has also seen two of the city's most important institutions undergoing major structural changes. The Crawford Art Gallery has added a, not uncontroversial, new wing to house contemporary art exhibitions. The Dutch architect, Erick van Egeraat, designed it: apparently local architects were dismayed at the gallery's decision not to award them the commission, Cork's significant ties to the Netherlands were obviously lost on them. In the 18th century the city was awash with Dutch merchants, and the Mardyke on the south side of the city was named in memory of their beloved Meer Dyke in Amsterdam. The bow-fronted houses throughout the city also highlight this mutual heritage.

The Cork Opera House has also been given a much-needed facelift. Although the addition of a few windows to the barren north-wall has made little difference, the front of the building can now be photographed without any immediate danger to sensitive lenses. The erection of a massive electronic advertising screen and a large Toyota ad, however, ensure that there is still work to be done. The movement of the Vangard Gallery from Macroom, and the opening of the Fenton Gallery have further bolstered the burgeoning art scene in the city.

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Cork Opera House

Entertainment on a grand scale

Emmet Place
Cork
Ireland
+353 21 427 0022
http://www.corkoperahouse.ie/

Situated in the heart of the city beside the river Lee, the Opera House has been providing Cork with entertainment of varying kinds for many years. The building is modern, it was constructed in 1965 after its predecessor had been destroyed by fire ten years before. There are large windows at the front allowing a view of the city to those enjoying a drink in the attractive bar. The programme of events is varied, and includes opera, drama, music and films. Recent productions have included Aida, the acclaimed Druid production of Martin McDonagh's The Beauty Queen of Leenane, and the final of the legendary "Over 60s" talent show. At the beginning of October, the Opera House is the base of the Cork Film Festival. It has a capacity of around one thousand.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Cork Opera House photo by Sean O'Sullivan

Photo: Sean O'Sullivan

Cork Opera House photo by Miriam Giudici

Photo: Miriam Giudici

Photo: Mark O'Hagan

Photo: Peter McCourt

Cork Opera House photo by Mweelrea IRL (on Holidays!!)

Photo: Mweelrea IRL (on Holidays!!)

Photo: Shane Supple

Cork Opera House photo by Brendan O'Connell

Photo: Brendan O'Connell

Photo: David James

Crawford Art Gallery

Fine collection of Irish artworks Emmet Place
Cork
Ireland
+353 21 427 3377
http://www.crawfordartgallery.com One of the most important buildings in the city centre, this gallery is host to a good collection of Irish artists, both contemporary and historical, including James Barry, Nathanial Grogan, Walter Osborne, Jack B. Yeats, Tony O'Malley, and Louis le Brocquy. Some of Cork's present-day working artists are also represented, including Vivienne Roche, Maud Cotter and James Scanlon. A new wing has just been added for the purpose of exhibiting modern contemporary art from Ireland and abroad. After browsing through the exhibits, be sure to check out the Crawford Gallery Cafe where you can enjoy some fine food in pleasant surrounds.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Sonya Moore
Photo: Jack Percy
Photo: jakeytoor
Photo: Margueriteoc
Photo: jim russell
Photo: Darren Bird

Fenton Gallery

Modern art in ancient building Wandesford Quay
Cork, Co. Cork
Ireland
+353 21 431 5294
http://www.artireland.net/ This commercial gallery in Cork city and is a most welcome addition to what is a burgeoning art scene. Occupying over two thousand square feet, with large windows allowing in a lot of natural light, it's a very good exhibition space indeed. The best in Irish painting, sculpture, prints and ceramics continue to be displayed and can be previewed on the gallery's web site. Shows have included work by Brian Maguire and Charles Tyrell.

Review © 2007, Wcities

St Finbarre's Cathedral

Dedicated to Cork's patron saint Dean Street
Cork, Co.Cork
Ireland
+353 21 496 3387
http://cathedral.cork.anglican... Situated in a quiet part of town, south of the Lee, St Finbarre's Cathedral is dedicated to the founder and patron saint of the city. Designed by Willliam Burges, building was completed in 1878. It's an exuberant triple-spired edifice built in Gothic Revival style, and decorated with stone tracery. Inside, the painted and gilded apse ceiling depicts Christ surrounded by angels. The stained glass windows below tell the story of Christ's life.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Brandon Wellcome
Photo: Ben Outram
Photo: Joe Lennon
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Photo: Joe Lennon
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Photo: Ben Outram
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Photo: Dan McClanahan

University College

Seat of learning College Road
Cork
Ireland
+353 21 490 3000
http://www.ucc.ie/ The elegant campus of University College Cork lies a little to the west of the city centre. The College was founded as Queen's College in 1845 and today is a constituent college of the National University of Ireland. The main buildings were ranged about three sides of a quadrangle, with the lecture rooms in the West Wing, the towered entrance, examination hall and library in the North Wing, and the residents of the President and Vice-President in the East Wing. Some vestiges of this scheme remain today. The president's garden behind the East Wing was originally walled off but is now open to students. The College is also home to the Boole Library and the Granary Theatre.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: John Wallace
Photo: Ryan Whalley
Photo: Dr. David J. Otway
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Vangard Gallery

Modern art in stylish surroundings Carey's Lane
Cork
Ireland
+353 21 427 8718
http://www.vangardgallery.com/ This gallery is located in the trendy Huguenot Quarter of the city centre. It hasn't been open too long but has already gained a good reputation for stylish and well-judged exhibitions. The emphasis here is on modern art, both figurative and abstract. Recent exhibitions have included paintings by Bridget Flannery and new works by Janet Pearse. Other artists whose work has featured are Felim Egan and Gwen O'Dowd.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Other Schmapplets in this city related to "Cork - Historical Background"
Cork
Cork - Neighborhood Guide
Cork - Where to Stay
Cork - Dining & Drinking
Cork - Art & Entertainment
Other nearby cities:
Killarney (72 miles)
Galway (157 miles)
Dublin (212 miles)
Belfast (345 miles)
Plymouth (346 miles)
Cardiff (366 miles)
Liverpool (405 miles)
Bristol (408 miles)
Bath (427 miles)
Birmingham (453 miles)

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