Schmap Dublin Historical Background

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Dublin - Historical Background
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"Dubh linn" means "dark pool", and "Baile Atha Cliath" (still the Gaelic name for the city) translates as the "town of the Hurdle Ford". The official date for the foundation of the city is 988AD but these two settlements had existed in one form or another for centuries before this date. Eventually, the two fused into one town along the river Liffey, a town which eventually became known as Dublin.

Long before the official foundation of the city, the golden age of Christianity had witnessed the creation of some of the treasures of modern Ireland. The Book of Kells, Book of Durrow and Ardagh Chalice all date from the period after 432 AD, when St Patrick baptized the pagan Irish and Irish monks spread the Word throughout Europe.

Viking Dublin

Dublin began its long evolution into a city, however, under the Vikings. They found it to be a useful base from which to plunder the surrounding country at will-the round towers which are such a characteristic feature of Irish monasteries were built as defensive structures to help defend the inhabitants from bands of godless Vikings-but trade, nevertheless, began to develop with the surrounding country. The Scandinavian settlement was far from politically or militarily secure, however, and they were driven from Dublin more than once before the final Viking defeat. This occurred at the Battle of Clontarf in 1014, when the forces of Brian Boru defeated the Scandinavians once and for all. A period of local rule then followed-a time which saw the foundation of Christchurch Cathedral-before the arrival of the English.

Dublin and the English

In 1169, the Normans arrived on the southeast coast of Ireland. They had been invited over by an Irish chieftain, Diarmait Mac Murchada, who wanted some extra muscle in his struggle for power. The Normans were led by one 'Strongbow'-otherwise known as Richard de Clare-who owed allegiance to the English King Henry II. Strongbow quickly took Dublin and the Norman occupation began. Against a backdrop of plagues and fires, Dublin continued to grow throughout the middle ages. Catholicism was its spiritual rock, upon which stood two cathedrals: St Patrick's and Christchurch. The area controlled by the English, however, was very small, consisting of only a few hundred miles around Dublin. This region was known as 'The Pale' (hence the term 'beyond the pale' of one who is uncivilized or disorderly) and even it was subject to continual attack from without.

The Tudor Period

The reigns of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I saw a consolidation of English rule in Ireland: the tentacles of power spread from Dublin across the island and Elizabeth I used the city as a base from which to further her policy of plantation: the settlement of Protestant families on confiscated 'papist' land. Dublin became a centre of Protestant rule; by 1540 all of the monasteries had been dissolved and the churches taken over. In 1592, the grounds of a former monastery became the site of the newly-established Trinity College Dublin, founded by Elizabeth as a mean of educating the new ruling class and of curing Ireland of 'popery'. Meanwhile, the fabric of the medieval city decayed: both Dublin Castle and Christchurch were falling into ruin and plague and poverty continued to claim lives. By the end of the 16th-century, the situation was as woeful as it had ever been in Dublin-the defeat of Irish rebellion leader Hugh O'Neill in 1601 opened the door to the influx of English and Scottish Protestants, and Dublin became little more than a garrison town.

The Seventeenth Century

This was a turbulent period in Ireland: Cromwell landed in the country from England and proceeded to massacre the people of Drogheda and Wexford in 1649 as a means of preventing further uprisings; and the Williamite wars saw the struggle for control of the English throne played out across Ireland, from Derry to Limerick. Eventually, however, Catholic James II was defeated by William of Orange at the Battle of the Boyne in 1690. In the subsequent settlement, Catholics were denied the political rights they had been promised. While Dublin itself was little effected by the upheavals across the rest of the country, the process of the Anglicization of the city continued, and at the close of the seventeenth century, the city entered its heyday.

The Eighteenth Century

The great terraces and squares of Georgian Dublin date from the city's eighteenth-century golden age of architecture. The period saw the erection or renovation of some of Dublin's greatest buildings. Dublin Castle was fully restored and the great green bowl of the Phoenix Park was established in the west of the city. Also built at this time were the Royal Hospital at Kilmainham, the Long Library of Trinity College, the Royal Exchange (now City Hall), the elegant Marsh's Library and the Mansion House. Later in the century, the Four Courts and the Custom House were raised on the city quays, and St Stephen's Green was laid out as a formal park. Sackville Street, now called O'Connell Street, a grand formal boulevard, became the city centrepiece.

It was also a golden age for politics and culture. The Irish parliament ("Grattan's Parliament") won increasing measures of self-government and the confidence of Dublin increased, as it became the focus of an extraordinary cultural boom, with theatre and music flourishing across the city.

The Nineteenth Century

This period of power and influence came to an end with the 1798 Rising, when a rebellion in the south, west and north-west and a botched French invasion convinced Westminster that Ireland had been allowed too much independence. The result was the Act of Union of 1801: the Irish parliament voted itself out of existence and England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales were formally politically unified for the first time. Many of Dublin's movers and shakers left the city for England and Dublin declined into a mere provincial city. In 1841, on the eve of the Great Famine, Daniel O'Connell won Catholic Emancipation, another indication of the decline of the punitive laws against Catholicism.

In the Famine of 1845-1849, Dublin suffered rather less than the rest of Ireland, as it was generally more wealthy (disease-ridden slums notwithstanding). In these years, indeed, the social life of the Anglo-Irish went on as normal, and the establishment of the National museum and National Library was planned on the city's south side.

Home Rule and the Rising

Under the surface, however, pressures were growing. The city was to become the focal point for the struggle for and against Home Rule. Throughout the nineteenth century, this pressure continued to mount remorselessly until eventually, at the beginning of the First World War, Home Rule was promised, as soon as the war itself should end. This modest promise was swept away by the Easter Rising of 1916, when a small band of rebels paralyzed the city and the Irish Republic was proclaimed from the steps of the GPO. They had little public support-many Irish volunteers had joined the war effort in Belgium and the rebels were perceived to be traitors to the greater cause. The people of Dublin were especially angry, for in the course of quelling the uprising, much of the centre of Dublin was bombarded by British Naval vessels standing out to sea. The execution of the rebels at Kilmainham Gaol, however, swung the tide of public opinion and a process was set in motion which would culminate in the Treaty in 1921. The greater part of Ireland achieved a limited independence as the Irish Free State, but the island was partitioned: six northeastern counties remained a part of the United Kingdom. The vicious Civil War which followed saw further damage to the fabric of the city, but once civil unrest had ended the city began the long process of restoration.

The Free State

The 1920s saw the gradual rebuilding of a city centre ravaged by the Rising, the War of Independence and the Civil War. Government policy in these years was much more concerned with the theory and practice of nationalism than with building a modern society and areas such as social welfare were severely neglected. The country, under the leadership of Eamon de Valera (the only survivor of the leaders of the Easter Rising) became increasingly isolated and introspective, and upon the outbreak of the Second World War, Ireland declared itself neutral, to the anger of both Britain and the United States. In practice, however, the country was far from neutral, granting (for example) over-fly rights to Allied planes. The morality of this policy of neutrality, however, continues to be questioned to this day: the banning of Jewish refugees from the country is certainly a source of national shame. One consequence of neutrality, however, was that Dublin (unlike Belfast and Derry/Londonderry in Northern Ireland) escaped the ravages of German bombing. In 1947, the Free State became the Republic of Ireland, and the country left the Commonwealth.

The Republic

The post-war years saw economic and cultural stagnation; thousands upon thousands of young people abandoned the countryside for Dublin, which began a period of population growth which has never stopped. Even larger numbers left Ireland altogether, with incalculable consequences for the cultural health of the country. The 1960s saw Ireland begin to look towards the outside world, and the changes which swept across western society in these years began to make their presence felt in Ireland also. The spread of civil disorder which began in Northern Ireland in 1968 left its mark on Dublin also: the capital was the target of occasional violent attacks in the 1970s and 1980s: the worst of these, in 1974, saw over thirty shoppers killed in a bomb attack. The perpetrators have never been caught.

Dublin Today

In 1973, the Republic joined the Common Market. The effect of this decision can be seen in the fabric of Dublin today: enormous amounts of money have been poured into Ireland in the last thirty years and have resulted in the kick-starting of the Irish economy. Today Ireland is Europe's fastest-growing economy, and Dublin is at the centre of this economic revolution.

In recent years, the political, cultural and social climate of the country has also changed radically. The long-standing corruption of the Irish body politic has been exposed remorselessly by a succession of judicial tribunals throughout the 1990s. At the time of writing, the consequences of these investigations remain to be seen, although it is certain that they will impact significantly upon the established Irish political parties. The election of Mary Robinson to the Presidency of Ireland in 1990 also ushered in a series of social changes to the country-divorce, for example, in now legal in Ireland for the first time; and a raft of liberal legislation has challenged the conservative ethos of the country, already damaged by a series of sex scandals involving the Catholic Church. These social changes have left their mark on Dublin most of all, and there is no doubt that the city has changed radically in the last ten years.

Literary Dublin

Dublin is one of the world's great literary cities. Three Nobel laureates-George Bernard Shaw, W.B. Yeats and Samuel Beckett-were born in the city, and James Joyce, the most famous Irishman never to have won the Nobel, was also a Dubliner.

Modern Irish writing, however, begins in Dublin's eighteenth-century heyday. Trinity College produced three of the most prominent writers of the century: dramatist Oliver Goldsmith, philosopher Edmund Burke and satirist Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver's Travels. Only Swift, however, remained in Dublin: Goldsmith and Burke moved to London as quickly as they could get away, setting a precedent for writers to come!

In the nineteenth century, James Clarence Mangan drank and brawled his way through Dublin, managing to produce some of Ireland's most distinctive poetry in his spare time; Bram Stoker wrote Dracula, and Oscar Wilde spent his youth in the city and studied at Trinity before he joined the flight to England. Shaw was born in the city in 1856-he left for England too, where he produced Pygmalion, and Joyce (also writing in exile) set Ulysses on a single summer's day in Dublin-June 16, 1904, a date now celebrated in the city as Bloomsday. Beckett went into exile in Paris but some of Ireland's leading lights managed to stay: Yeats, for example, remained in the new Irish Republic until his death in 1939, and the post-war years saw the emergence of such writers as Flann O'Brien and Patrick Kavanagh.

Today, Irish writing is more popular and vigorous than ever. Such novelists as Colm Toibin (The Heather Blazing), Anne Enright (The Portable Vigin), Roddy Doyle (The Committments), Jennifer Johnston (How Many Miles to Babylon?), Dermot Healy (A Goat's Song) and Robert McLiam Wilson (Eureka Street) have established international reputations; and they are joined by such important poets as Medbh McGuckian, Eavan Boland, Nuala Ni Dhomhnaill and Ireland's fourth Nobel laureate Seamus Heaney. Not all of these writers have made their home in Dublin itself, of course, but they figure prominently in the city's energetic literary scene and their achievements have added to the rich texture of Dublin's literary life.

Dublin in Transition

In May 2000, Dublin Corporation opened the Millennium Bridge, linking Ormond Quay to the Temple Bar area. A pedestrian-only alternative to the 19th century Ha'penny Bridge, it's a fine addition to the urban landscape, and a metaphor of sorts, too: for now, more than ever, Dubliners need new walkways to accommodate a rapidly expanding city.

Home to almost a million people, Dublin has undergone a startling transformation of late. Countless apartment blocks have been built in an attempt to accommodate a burgeoning population; while a plethora of stylish restaurants, cafes, bars and hotels serve the needs of those who crave international cuisine, glamorous surroundings and better coffee. Traditional, nostalgic images still abound in promotional tourist literature, but today's Dublin arguably has more in common with the high-streets of London or New York than it does with James Joyce, Eamonn De Valera or 'pints of plain'. Dubliners can now be seen sipping cocktails in stylish bars like Dakota or Viva; we undoubtedly dress better; and a casual stroll down Grafton Street displays a growing multi-cultural and multi-racial atmosphere. Dublin has become an international city, and what's more, it seemed to happen almost overnight. Depending on your point of view, all of this is either a breath of fresh air or a testament to the steady dissolution of a concrete national identity, but either way, this guide is a brief attempt to highlight some interesting geographical and social changes that are underway in our new millennial Dublin.

Temple Bar

Colloquially (but inaccurately) known as Dublin's 'Left Bank', Temple Bar was the first area in Dublin to be subject to major redevelopment. It's a small, compact neighbourhood and is home to a whole range of attractions, including both Arthouse and the Temple Bar Music Centre on the artificially created, but wonderfully named, Curved Street. Other attractions like the Gallery of Photography, the Irish Film Centre (IFC) and the stylish Eden restaurant surround the purpose-built Meeting House Square, while establishments like the Shona Sculpture Gallery, specialising in Zimbabwean art, reflect an ethnic diversity which is beginning to assert itself all over the capital.

The newly created Cow Lane corner of Temple Bar is another example of a city in transition. Formerly a run-down street, the district is set to become a major shopping area in the city, and is home to the Whichcraft Gallery, featuring a range of original artwork by new and established Irish artists. And, most significantly, in June 2000, the Project Arts Centre reopened its doors. Temporarily demolished in 1996, Project was one of the first such organisations to move into the then-derelict Temple Bar area in the mid-sixties and has been responsible for a range of cutting-edge theatre and art installations for over thirty years. The new four-storey building on East Essex Street houses two performance spaces, exhibition areas and a cafe/bar. Temple Bar's numerous public squares encourage visitors to congregate after nightfall, and in high summer you'd almost think you were in Spain or Italy, as the crowds from pubs like the Norseman and Oliver St John Gogarty spill out onto the street.

Parnell Street

As a counterpoint to some of the excesses evident in the Temple Bar area, it's important to note that Ireland's economic boom is not without its troubling side. The arrival of African, Bosnian and Romanian refugees in Dublin has forced many to reconsider just what we mean by the phrase "Ireland of the Welcomes", and increasing efforts have been made by the Irish government to combat the fact that racism in Ireland has now become a substantive issue. If you want to see another side of the new Dublin, venture up to Parnell Street. Just off O'Connell Street, this north-side district has become a focal point for a number of new ethnic communities, and several African food stores and hair-care outlets sit uneasily amid a more traditional streetscape of inner-city pubs and local shops. The local and ethnic populations are largely isolated from one another, and black residents in the area have been frequent victims of racially motivated assaults. There have also been numerous reports of unprovoked attacks on tourists, and while Dublin, by global standards, can still be considered a safe city, non-white visitors would be advised to exercise some caution, particularly if residing on the north side of the capital.

It's not all bad news, however: the recently opened Forum Bar is actively touting a multiracial clientele, while the longer-established reggae night Firehouse Skank draws a diverse and chilled-out crowd. Parnell Street is home to the Bangkok Cafe, arguably the finest Thai restaurant in the city, which has been attracting many satisfied customers who normally wouldn't venture near the area. The James Joyce Cultural Centre, the stylish Cobalt Cafe and the Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery are all also nearby.

Smithfield

Just west of Ormond Quay lies the newly revitalised Smithfield Village, which is probably the most startling example of Ireland's Celtic Tiger economy in action. Formerly a run-down inner-city residential area, notable for its early morning fish market and weekend horse fair, the area's signature attraction is now the magnificent Smithfield Square. The largest purpose-built open civic space in Europe, the square has been dramatically decked out with a series of 25m high braziers, which shoot flame into the air on Saturday nights. Smithfield is also home to a specially-converted chimney which offers enviable views of Dublin city; Ceol, an interactive museum charting the history of traditional Irish music; Chief O'Neill's Hotel; and Kelly and Ping, a restaurant that prides itself on Asian fusion cooking. The Smithfield area, like so many other inner city zones, has also been a prime target for the construction of apartment complexes, and the district will, undoubtedly, soon become a cultural centre to rival even that of Temple Bar.

It's difficult to assess how all this rampant development will pan out. Many detractors have concluded that, with soaring inflation, frequent industrial disputes and a housing situation reaching crisis point, the days of the Celtic Tiger are numbered. Others argue that Dublin is fast losing much of its relaxed atmosphere that gave the city its charm in the first place. At the time of writing, however, Guinness has just unveiled its new six-storey Storehouse, which at the cost of IR £ 30 million, is home to an exhibition centre and a bar offering a panoramic view of the entire city. Areas like South William Street and certain sections of the city quays are also scheduled for massive redevelopment. The gap between the rich and the poor, however, has never been so evident, and, while these new attractions certainly make Dublin easier on the eye, visitors to the city may wish to consider the plight of those who have, through no fault of their own, been left behind.

Copyright 1999-2005 Wcities, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Contact Wcities

Arthouse

All things multimedia

Curved Street
Temple Bar
Dublin, Leinster
Ireland
+353 1 605 6800

This multi-purpose venue opposite the Temple Bar Music Centre is a haven for all things multimedia. Featuring a cyber-café and an often innovative exhibition space, Arthouse also offers a range of short-term computer and graphic design courses. Architecturally innovative with an exposed elevator and ramps, Arthouse is worth a visit for the building alone. Its glass facade offers pleasant views of Curved Street; so even if you're not the technical type, it's lovely, low-key venue in which to linger over a cup of coffee.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: wcities

Bloomsday

Literary festival in honour of James Joyce 35 North Great George's Street
(James Joyce Centre)
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 878 8547
http://www.jamesjoyce.ie/ The Bloomsday Festival is held annually in mid-June to commemorate James Joyce's seminal novel "Ulysses," the impetus for which took place in Ringsend on June 16th, 1904. The date is marked in Dublin with events throughout the city. The main focus of the day is the James Joyce Centre, a beautifully restored Georgian townhouse which has become a successful research center. Readings, film screenings, concerts, and more take place throughout the week, and there is even a "historic" Irish Breakfast at the center - complete with rashers and a pint of Guinness! Although it helps if you have an interest in things Joycean, don't worry, Bloomsday is for everybody.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Rocky Mullin

Ceol

Traditional Irish music centre Smithfield Village
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 817 3820
http://www.ceol.ie This relatively new venue in the heart of Smithfield, one of the oldest parts of Dublin, celebrates the story of Irish traditional song, music and dance. The centre features interactive touchscreens, music videos and a 180-degree widescreen auditorium, all of which investigate the contribution that Irish music has made to world culture. Admission: IEP5 for adults, IEP4 for students and senior citizens, IEP3.50 for children.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Chief O'Neill's Hotel

Fashionable urban setting Smithfield Village
Dublin, Co. Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 817 3838
http://www.chiefoneills.com This contemporary hotel is located in Dublin's up-and-coming Smithfield Village. The hotel's design is sleek and modern, combining the old walls of the Jameson Distillery with new glass and steel features. There is a large bar/restaurant on-site, which often features traditional Irish music. The bedrooms are comfortable, with particularly funky sinks. If you get a chance to stay in a suite, they are spectacular: all three have balconies with views of Dublin city, and a circular, glass-block bathroom with a jacuzzi in the centre of the room. Check out their website for a tour.

Review © 2007, Wcities

City Hall

Reminder of Dublin's golden age Dame Street
Dublin, Leinster
Ireland
+353 1 222 2204 The building was designed by Thomas Cooley and, when it was completed in 1779, originally housed the Royal Exchange. It is an elegant reminder of the wealth and opulence of Dublin in the city's 18th-century heyday. Today, City Hall is in the ownership of Dublin Corporation, which has restored the building beautifully. The great central atrium, complete with gold-leafed dome and mosaic floor, is one of the most impressive public spaces around. The history of Dublin is told in a vivid, computer-aided series of exhibitions.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Cobalt Café and Gallery

Stylish and airy cafe 16 North Great Georges Street
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 873 0313 Just around the corner from O'Connell Street is the fashionable Cobalt Café. Located on the historic North Great Georges Street, the Cobalt is situated on the ground-floor of a converted Georgian house, and its relaxed atmosphere and picturesque surroundings make it a perfect spot for lunch. The café will be of particular interest to art lovers, as it regularly showcases new exhibitions by up-and-coming Irish artists. The James Joyce Centre, a museum devoted to Dublin's most famous novelist, is just across the street; and the Dublin Writers Museum is also a short stroll away. Perfect, then, for a quiet cultural afternoon.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Cobalt Café and Gallery photo by wcities
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Dakota

Elegant and stylish city-centre bar 9 South William Street
Dublin, Leinster
Ireland
+353 1 672 7696 Dakota is a new face on the Dublin bar scene but it has already attracted a loyal crowd. It's not surprising: behind an unassuming Georgian facade lies one of the city's most attractive spaces. Inside, the emphasis is on polished wood, painstakingly-restored stonework and comfortable leather seats. By day, Dakota is mellow and relaxed and offers excellent lunches and coffee; by night, however, the volume goes up and crowds pour in. It can get very noisy, and you should be prepared to queue on weekend nights, but for an energetic and stylish night out, this rather beautiful bar is hard to beat.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Catherine Bélanger
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DesignYard Gallery

Marvellous new gallery Cow's Lane
Temple Bar
Dublin, Leinster
Ireland
+353 1 474 1011
http://www.designyard.ie/ The Whichcraft Gallery is a new and beautifully designed addition to Temple Bar's list of attractions. An extension of Whichcraft - one of Dublin's premier craft shops - the gallery is situated in the newly created Cow's Lane district, which looks set to become one of the most distinctive shopping areas in the city. Whichcraft Gallery features the work of new and established Irish artists and, like its sister gallery, provides the opportunity to view and purchase one-off and original art.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Dublin Castle

Former seat of British power Dublin Castle
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 677 7129
http://www.dublincastle.ie/ Dublin Castle symbolised English rule for 700 years, ever since the Anglo-Normans built their fortress on this site. Later, the castle was to serve as the headquarters of the English-appointed Viceroy of Ireland. It was not until 1922 that it was finally handed over to the Irish Free State. Guided tours include the palatial State Apartments of the castle. Historical items of interest include a throne donated by King William of Orange and a variety of banners of the now-disbanded Knights of St Patrick. The Castle is very much a working series of buildings: it is used for State functions, and many government agencies are based here. There is a great deal for the visitor to see, including the Chapel Royal, the formal gardens, the Crypt Theatre and the splendid Chester Beatty Museum. In all ways, an essential visit.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Eden

Organic Paradise Meeting House Square
Temple Bar
Dublin
Ireland
+353 (0)1 670 5372
http://www.edenrestaurant.ie/ A stylish brasserie-style restaurant, Eden serves delicious food smack in the heart of Temple Bar. There's an open kitchen and glass walls that allow for people-watching in Meeting House Square. There is also an outdoor eating area for those rare days of pleasant weather in Ireland, so expect a capacity crowd when it happens. Dishes available include corn-fed chicken with mash, vegetarian buckwheat pancake filled with garlic, spinach and cheddar or black pudding salad. There is also a good but reasonable wine list. It can get noisy and crowded, but it is well worth it.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Farringtons

Live music, food and beer 27-28 East Essex Street
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 671 5135 Formerly the Norseman pub, Farringtons was formerly small, intimate and the home of some of the best live music in the city. Its location in the tourist mecca of Temple Bar, however, led to the bar being massively extended and Farringtons' character is now, consequently, much altered. Nonetheless, some of the old features remain, the food is good and it's still a reasonably good pub in which to hear traditional music in the city center.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Forum Bar

A bar for a changing community Parnell Street
Dublin
Ireland
An encouraging testament to the increasing cultural diversity on the city's north side, the Forum is the brainchild of two Nigerian businessmen, and hopes to attract a clientele from both the growing immigrant population in the Parnell Street area, as well as the local punters. It's a nice, intimate bar, stylishly done up in monochrome and only a short walk from the James Joyce Cultural Centre. Racial tensions are still evident around the Parnell Street area, but the Forum is hopefully a sign of better times to come.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Gallery of Photography

Impressive photographic museum Eustace Street
Temple Bar
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 671 4654
http://www.irish-photography.com/ This non-profit venue is the only gallery in Ireland devoted exclusively to photography. It holds around ten exhibitions a year and hosts work by both Irish and international photographers. The building's glass façade is one of the finest examples of contemporary architecture in the city. It also offers a variety of seminars and workshops. Spread over four floors, the gallery is also an excellent source of photographic gifts, books and cards. The shop has an excellent selection of original prints from Irish and international photographers and the stock changes regularly.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Georgian Dublin

Dublin
Ireland
The elegant charm of southeast Dublin stands as a testament to Georgian urban design. In amongst the throngs of tourists is the exquisite Merrion Square complete with beautiful central gardens and a wonderfully camp memorial to Oscar Wilde, who lived on the square in his youth.A few minutes walk west brings one to the lovely open space that is St Stephen's Green, which undoubtedly forms the centrepiece of eighteenth-century Dublin's impressive town planning. Grafton Street runs into the northeastern corner of the Green and is a shopper's paradise, but in your purchasing frenzy don't forget the National Gallery, National Museum or Leinster House, home of the Irish parliament (Dail Eireann), which are all of enormous cultural interest.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Guinness Storehouse

A history of the black stuff St James's Gate
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 408 4800
http://www.guinnessstorehouse.... To many, Guinness is one of the most important features of Ireland. Completed at the cost of IR£30 million, the Guinness Storehouse is a fine addition to Dublin's ever-growing list of purpose-built attractions. Set inside a converted 18th century fermentation building, it comprises of six floors linked by a giant atrium in the shape of a pint glass. Although the actual brewery is not open to the public, the storehouse's new exhibition space outlines the 200-year history of the company and reveals many brewing secrets. The models and displays of the exhibition are followed by a short film and a glass of the famous brew! The storehouse is also home to the stylish Gravity Bar.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art

Manet, Dégas, Rodin and more Charlemont House
Parnell Square North
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 222 5550
http://www.hughlane.ie/ Founded in 1908 by art enthusiast Sir Hugh Lane, this elegant gallery houses Sir Hugh's collection of paintings by Dégas, Monet and Courbet; in addition to Rodin sculptures and a fine selection of modern Irish paintings. A magnificent stained glass room includes panels by Evie Hone and Harry Clarke: most notable of late, however, is the Lane's acquisition of Francis Bacon's studio, which is now reproduced in the gallery untouched. Free classical music concerts are held here on winter Sundays, lectures are frequently given: the Hugh Lane is worth a visit all year long.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art photo by wcities
Photo: wcities

Irish Film Centre (IFC)

Arthouse success story 6 Eustace Street
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 677 8788
http://www.filmboard.ie/links.php As one of the most successful developments in Temple Bar, the Irish Film Institute (IFI) will keep the most discerning culture-vulture entertained for hours. Film buffs will enjoy the two art-house cinemas and fairly comprehensive bookshop. The café/bar/restaurant is worth visiting in its own right, if only to marvel at the award-winning architecture—as this light-filled building was constructed from the space between two older houses. The IFI also regularly hosts festival screenings, seminars and workshops. A fun and relaxing place in which to spend a hour or two.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Irish Film Centre (IFC) photo by wcities
Photo: wcities

Irish Museum of Modern Art

Superb gallery in historic setting Royal Hospital
Military Rd, Kilmainham
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 612 9900
http://www.modernart.ie In 1991, the restored site of the Royal Hospital was officially opened as the Irish Museum of Modern Art. This splendid 17th century building is now the venue for some superb exhibitions, and conducts a number of educational and community-oriented projects. Free guided tours are available and these include visits to the chapel, banqueting hall and the beautifully restored baroque garden. Current exhibitions include work by Colin Middleton and Denis Oppenheim. Admission is free.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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James Joyce Centre

A fitting tribute 35 North Great Georges Street
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 878 8547
http://www.jamesjoyce.ie/home/ This Georgian townhouse is beautifully restored thanks to the efforts of David Norris, a Joycean enthusiast, Irish Senator and human rights activist who saved the house from demolition. Once the home of Dennis Maginni and his dance school, the James Joyce Center hosts an extensive program of events, including films, lectures and walking tours of Joycean Dublin haunts. The center also organizes Bloomsday, an annual celebration of Joyce's "Ulysses," which takes place on June 16th.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Kelly and Ping

Excellent Thai cuisine Smithfield Village
Smithfield
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 814 8583
http://www.kellyandping.ie/ Kelly and Ping is a quality Asian restaurant that's divine in looks, presentation, service and style; it's well worth taking a trip out to Smithfield for a meal here. The restaurant itself looks fantastic, all black and red, with huge painted murals and stained-glass art. The menu is simple, and there is a glossary in the back to explain all the Asian food terms. It's not too expensive either, and there is a daily Happy Hour in the bar from 5pm-8pm with drinks on special reduction.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: William Murphy
Photo: William Murphy

Kilmainham

Dublin
Ireland
The old jail was built according to the Enlightenment principles of panopticism or continual surveillance. It has recently found stardom in its own right, featuring in such films as In the Name of the Father, and includes an excellent museum documenting colonial history and political martyrdom in Ireland. IMMA is housed in the former Royal Hospital, constructed in 1684 as a home for retired soldiers and well worth seeing in its own right.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Kilmainham Gaol

Key building in Ireland's history Inchicore Road
Kilmainham
Dublin, Leinster
Ireland
+353 1 453 5984
http://www.heritageireland.ie/... Kilmainham Gaol is one of Ireland's most important buildings. It was designed in an attempt to improve the quality of the penal system, and in the belief that prisons should be hygienic and well-ventilated. It is also, however, a 'panopticon', emphasizing the importance of surveillance at all times, and as a result the Gaol earned itself a notorious reputation. Inmates included rebels from the Easter Rising in 1916; most notably Eamon de Valera, the last prisoner to be freed under the Free State, who went on to become President of Ireland. Guided tours provide the only access to the prison. An exhibition in the main hall and a video also outline the history of this controversial building. Admission is EUR5 for adults and EUR3 for children.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Marsh's Library

Sparkling literary lineage St. Patrick's Close
Dublin, Leinster
Ireland
+353 1 454 3511
http://www.marshlibrary.ie/ Built in 1701, Marsh's Library is the oldest public library in Ireland. The architect, Sir William Robinson, also designed much of Dublin Castle. Commissioned by Archbishop Narcissus Marsh, Archbishop of Dublin, it was opened in 1707. The library, housed in a splendid Queen Anne mansion, is tucked behind St Patrick's Cathedral and set amid very fine formal gardens. The interior of the library is very decorative, with gilded gables adorning the bookcases and a mitre towering over the shelves. Visitors can see the cage-like alcoves in which readers were locked when they wished to study rare books. The collection of books from previous centuries is of great interest.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Meeting House Square

Modern square with outdoor films and food market Eustace Street
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 6057700 (Tourist info) The development of Temple Bar as a cultural quarter was the inspiration for the creation of this innovative city square. Surrounded on all sides by contemporary architecture, the square is used for outdoor films, concerts and art, check the local press for details of upcoming events. The market on Saturdays showcases the best of Irish home-made and organic food, and musicians will serenade you as you munch. It's a good idea to wander down here on a Saturday afternoon to see what's going on.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Stephan Hügel
Photo: Stephan Hügel
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Millennium Bridge

New addition to city landscape Wellington Quay
Temple Bar
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 605 7700 The Millennium Bridge is one of the finest additions to the city landscape in recent times and is certain to become as loved as the neighbouring Ha'penny Bridge. The winner of a design competition with 153 entries, its designers describe the parabolic arch as "simple, lightweight, transparent and structurally daring". The pedestrian bridge is wheelchair accessible and should be crossed at night so that the subtle and beautiful lighting can be appreciated. The span was actually constructed fifty miles from Dublin - in Carlow - and was the single largest object to have ever been transported over land in Ireland. It only took 25 minutes to lift the structure into place - a fitting millennial tribute to twentieth-century design and technology.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Aoife Hester

National Library of Ireland

Genealogical research Kildare Street
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 603 0200
http://www.nli.ie/ Opened in 1890, the National Library was built for the Royal Dublin Society, which was formed in order to promote the arts and sciences in Dublin and to improve conditions for the poor. The library is now Ireland's bibliographical centre and incorporates both the Heraldic Museum and Genealogical Office. Tickets are generally issued to individuals whom the library consider to have "genuine research needs": applications can be made in person and a decision will be reached immediately. The library also regularly holds exhibitions and the Genealogical Office caters for individuals who wish to carry out family research but are unfamiliar with the library's extensive collection.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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National Museum at Kildare Street

Ireland's national treasure trove Kildare St
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 677 7444
http://www.heritageireland.ie/en/ The National Museum houses artifacts which date from 7,000 B.C. to the 20th century. The Kildare Street site is home to pieces from Viking times, alongside Celtic masterpieces and one of the largest collections of Bronze Age gold in the world. The centerpiece of the collection is the Ardagh Chalice, which dates back to 800 A.D. The museum also includes an exhibition dealing with Ireland's struggle for independence from 1916-1922. There's a pleasant café and bookstore on-site.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Jeremy Janssens
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O'Connell Street

Dublin
Ireland
The main artery of Dublin's city centre has been sadly neglected in recent years, but now seems due for revival. This should not, perhaps, prove too difficult: all of O'Connell Street's main institutions remain in place: the Gresham Hotel, Clery's department store, Eason's bookshop and the Gate Theatre. O'Connell Street is also home to Dublin's most potent symbol - the General Post Office (GPO). In 1916, the GPO served as headquarters of the Easter Rising, and the proclamation of the Irish Republic was read from its steps. Georgian Parnell Square, the Dublin Writers Museum and the fine Hugh Lane Municipal Museum of Art are the other major points of interest in this area. Close at hand, the elegant James Joyce Centre is housed in a fine Georgian townhouse. North of O'Connell Street, in the Drumcondra area of the city, lies the Botanic Gardens, complete with impressive glasshouses and a riverside walk. East of O'Connell Street lies Custom House Quay, set on fire by Sinn Fein supporters in the turmoil of 1921. Custom House is the eighteenth-century masterpiece of architect James Gandon and was long considered a powerful symbol of British colonialism. While the building now houses government offices, sections of the elegant interior are open to the public. West of O'Connell Street, the city quays continue to the Four Courts, seat of the Irish justice system. Also designed by James Gandon, it survived damage in both the 1916 Rising before being extensively damaged in the Civil War of 1922. The building houses the High Court and Supreme Court of Ireland and, unfortunately, only the central atrium is open to the public. Behind the Four Courts lies Smithfield Village,Many small cafes and restaurants have sprung up here in recent years, alongside Ceol, the museum of Irish music through the ages. The centrepiece of the area, however, is the impressive National Museum at Collins Barracks,- emphasizing Ireland's recent history.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Oliver St John Gogarty

Popular Temple Bar watering-hole 58/59 Fleet St
Temple Bar
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 671 1822
http://www.gogartys.ie Oliver St John Gogarty was born in 1878 and was a man of many talents: a poet, writer, pilot, politician, sportsman and surgeon. He became known among Dubliners for his kindness and alms-giving to the poor of the city. Located in Temple Bar, this bar is popular for its traditional Irish music sessions, while the restaurant specialises in seafood. Be warned however: the Oliver St. John Gogarty can get very busy indeed during the summer months.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Phoenix Park

Europe's largest city park Park Gate Street
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 6057700 (Tourist info)
http://www.visitdublin.com/see... Measuring just under 1,800 acres, Phoenix Park is the largest city park in Europe. The great green expanse in the west of the city is a mixture of wilderness and formal landscape gardens. It offers a variety of recreational activities such as Gaelic football, polo and cricket. A towering Papal Cross marks the visit of Pope John Paul II, back in 1979. Also enclosed within the park's boundaries are a Visitors' Centre, Ashtown Castle, Dublin Zoo, Aras an Uachtarain (the official residence of the President of Ireland) and the Residence of the United States' Ambassador. Phoenix Park also has a bird sanctuary and a herd of fallow deer as well as boasting