Schmap Dublin A Day-Trip on the DART Line

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Dublin - A Day-Trip on the DART Line
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With crippling traffic problems that can bring the city to a virtual stand-still at rush-hour, Dubliners should indeed be thankful for the DART. An electrified light-rail system that has just one line, the route stretches 25 miles from the picture-postcard village of Howth all the way south to Bray. A trip on this regular and surprisingly-clean service is about a pleasant and stress-free journey as you can have in Dublin city. The DART line also takes in some of the city's most charming suburban villages, and if you purchase a one-day pass from Dublin Bus (EUR7), you can hop on and off the train as you please. It's an ideal way to explore the outlying areas of this rapidly expanding city.

If you're in the city-centre you can board the DART train at either Connolly or the Tara Street Station, both of which are within walking distance of O'Connell Street. Alternatively, the Pearse Street station is located at Westland Row. You have the option of travelling either northbound or southbound: both destinations put a variety of entertainment options and historical landmarks at your disposal.

A journey from the Tara Street station to the seaside town of Bray (at the outskirts of Co. Wicklow) will take just under an hour. Once leaving the city centre, you'll pass by stops at Ringsend and the football stadium at Lansdowne Road, before the train joins the coast, and the line curves around the majestic Dublin Bay. Traveling through Sandymount, with its fine strand and spectacular views of the Wicklow mountains, you'll then arrive at Booterstown, an affluent Dublin suburb, probably best known for its Bird Sanctuary. As you travel further south, you'll pass through the bustling town of Blackrock, renowned for its restaurants and weekend market; the suburbs of Salthill and Monkstown; and the town of Dun Laoghaire. Originally known as Kingstown, Dun Laoghaire is an elegant Victorian port with imposing harbour walls and a rocky beach, and the town serves as a popular spot for those with a passion for sailing. Dun Laoghaire is also a thriving commercial district and features a reasonably good shopping mall in the centre of town.

Traveling through Seapoint, the next stop is Sandycove. A seaside village popular with some of Dublin's more fashionable suburbanites, Sandycove is home to the famous Forty Foot bathing-place and a curious Martello Tower, which features as a location in the opening chapter of Joyce's Ulysses. Built originally by the British during the Napoleonic wars, there are several such towers scattered across the Dublin coastline. Joyce himself lived here, however, during 1904, and the tower now houses a museum in tribute to his staggering contribution to Irish literature.

Passing through the mainly-residential area of Glenegeary, you'll soon arrive at Dalkey: an historic town favoured by both Irish and international celebrities, whose homes on the Hill command enviable views of Dublin Bay. This well-preserved Medieval village dates back over 3,500 years and is highly regarded for its seafood restaurants and charming pubs. A visit to the Dalkey Castle and Heritage Centre provides a fascinating insight into this delightful, but rather exclusive area; and if you're feeling particularly adventurous, hire a boat out to the deserted Dalkey Island and explore the ruins of an early Christian church.

Killiney, which is the next stop on the line, is rather comically known as the Irish "Bay of Naples", and its pebbly beach is much loved by Dubliners in search of the sun. The DART stop is adjacent to the beach, and the popular Killiney Court Hotel offers fine panoramic views of the whole area. Passing through Shankhill, you'll find yourself crossing over the county border, and into Wicklow, which is known colloquially as the "garden of Ireland". Immortalized in Neil Jordan's movie The Miracle, Bray is a curious town: its rather gaudy seafront, lined with aMuseement arcades and hoards of bed & breakfast guesthouses, seems right out of another age, but with city-centre house prices in Dublin being what they are, it's still a bustling neighbourhood. A somewhat arduous walk up Bray Head is rewarding: the view from the top will really make your day-trip worthwhile.

The north side of Dublin is changing fast, and there's no better way to view the city's economic and social diversity than from the comfort of your train. Like many aspects of Irish life, the social geography of northside Dublin is somewhat contradictory: prosperous suburbs like Howth and Malahide sit uncomfortably with economically stagnant areas such as Harmonstown and Killester. For a newcomer to the city, a train journey north offers perhaps less immediate diversion than traveling southbound, but that is not to undermine the wealth of fascinating heritage in areas that many Dubliners consider as the real heart of the city.

Boarding at Connolly, the first stop on the route is Clontarf Road. Although the station is some distance from the village itself, Clontarf is certainly worth a visit, not least for its signature building, the Castle, and a plethora of fine restaurants. You'll also pass by Dollymount Strand and Bull Island, the latter of which is the only UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in a capital city, and home to a variety of domestic wildlife and birds. A visit to the Island's comprehensive Interpretative Centre on the Causeway Road will fill you in on the area-and the intriguing history of the origins of Bull Island itself.

Next on the line is the town of Killester: a solidly working-class neighbourhood probably best known for Roddy Doyle's affectionate representations of its people in the Barrytown trilogy of novels: The Commitments, The Van and The Snapper. The villages of Harmonstown, Raheny and Kilbarrack are all also residential areas; stay on the train here, continuing north through the neighbourhoods of Bayside and Sutton.

You'll then arrive at Howth Junction. Remain on the train if you wish to visit the seaside town of Howth, but transfer for Portmarnock and Malahide. Both of these villages were originally industrial ports, and unsurprisingly feature an abundance of quality seafood restaurants. Locally known as the "velvet strand", Portmarnock offers fine views of both Lambay Island and Ireland's Eye, and is also home to one of the finest golf courses in the country. Malahide features an impressive marina with over three hundred berths, and is a popular destination for yachts visiting from overseas. The town also boasts a fine Norman castle and demesne. First built in 1174, the estate remained in the ownership of the same family for over 800 years, and is now under the care of Dublin County Council.

If you haven't transferred at the Junction, you'll soon find yourself at the end of the line, arriving in one of the most fondly regarded towns in all of Dublin. Howth can be breath-takingly beautiful during the summer, and it will come as no surprise to see the village thronged with visitors, who take the short walk along the pier to an elegantly restored lighthouse. With its steep, winding streets, spectacular views of the Bay from Howth Head, and a range of excellent sea-food restaurants, Howth appears unashamedly romantic at sunset, even in poor weather. If you're thirsting for a pint after a long walk, the Bloody Stream pub is conveniently located right underneath the DART station.

Full details of DART services are available at www.irishrail.ie/ttable/cdart.html.

Copyright 1999-2005 Wcities, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Contact Wcities

Blackrock Market

Bargains galore

19a Main Street
Blackrock
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 2833 522
http://www.blackrockmarket.com

This popular south Dublin market is located in a Georgian house with all its features virtually intact. Over 50 stalls are collected here, selling jewellery, pine furniture, antiques, bric-a-brac, shoes, clothing, books, music and much more. With its restaurant and cafe, the Blackrock Market makes for a very pleasant Sunday afternoon excursion. The market has a great reputation amongst Dublin's bargain hunters.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: thebaz_dublin

Bloody Stream

Award winning bar and restaurant 14 West Pier
Howth Village
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 839 5076
http://www.thebloodystream.com/ No visit to Dublin is complete without a trip to the seaside village of Howth, where the Bloody Stream pub is the perfect spot to round off an afternoon of sight-seeing with a pint or two. Located directly under the local DART train station, the Bloody Stream is a spacious and friendly pub that has won numerous awards, including the Beck's Pub of the Year 1998 and the Black and White Pub of the Year 1997. The Bloody Stream's restaurant menu (which includes seafood and steaks) is also of a high standard.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Daniel Halici
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Bray Head

Dramatic coastal walk Bray Head, 20 kilometers south of Dublin
Dublin, Co. Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 605 7700 The seaside resort of Bray is at the end of the southern reach of the DART line, marking the end of Dublin's city limits. The city can't expand any more this way in any case, as Bray Head juts out like a dam against the urban spread. A cliff path runs along the coast to the pretty port of Greystones and is a favorite walk for fit Dubliners. There are some stunning views of the Irish Sea from the cliffs.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Bull Island

A natural habitat Causeway Road
Dublin, Leinster
Ireland
No bulls here, but there's plenty of birds and unusual flora to discover if you want to get away from the city streets for a while. Bull Island is the only UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in a capital city and is home to foxes, shrews, badgers and rabbits, as well as being an important over-wintering ground for wildfowl. Arctic migrating birds are the main tourists visiting the island, but it's well worth seeing this important and little visited treasure in the heart of the city.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Bull Island Visitor and Interpretative Centre

Flora and fauna Causeway Road
Dublin, Leinster
Ireland
+353 1 672 3392
http://www.dublincorp.ie/ Bull Island was formed from the sandbank which accumulated behind the North Bull Wall and nowadays is a designated bird sanctuary. Almost 5km in length, Bull Island contains a large variety of plants and animals and is the feeding ground for up to 40,000 birds which migrate from the Arctic each year. The island's Interpretative Centre features exhibits, videos, slides and an interactive CD-ROM presentation, all of which demonstrate the ecological diversity and importance of the area. Admission is free.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Dalkey Castle and Heritage Centre

Scenic views of the city Castle Street
Dalkey
Dublin, Co. Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 285 8366
http://www.dalkeycastle.com Located in one of Co. Dublin's most exclusive seaside towns, this charming heritage centre gives a flavour of how Dublin developed from the Middle Ages, through the Victorian era, to the present day. The centre includes models and audio-visual presentations, and an exhibition script specially written by the Irish author and playwright Hugh Leonard. St. Begnet's, an interesting 8th century church, is just next door.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Dalkey Castle and Heritage Centre photo by wcities
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Dalkey Island

Get away from it all Dalkey Island, 10 miles south of Dublin
Dublin, Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 605 7700 (Dublin Tourist Information)
http://www.megalithomania.com/... Dalkey is one of the more charming (and wealthy) parts of Dublin. In the summer, you can hire a boat to Dalkey Island where you'll find a bird sanctuary, a Martello tower and the ruins of the early Irish St. Begnet's Church. Dublin is curious in that it can provide these wildernesses so close to the city. You're unlikely to be trampled by hordes of tourists on this little-visited island.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Dollymount Strand

A Northside retreat Bull Island
Dublin, Leinster
Ireland
Held in fond esteem by real Dubliners, Dollymount Strand was the setting for thousands of days by the sea before the dawning of cheap international sun holidays. The area is now the only UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in a capital city. The strand is part of Bull Island (which was formed when harbour improvements caused a sand spit to evolve) and it is a classic example of sand marsh ecology. If you're feeling energetic, this is a great place to fly kites, and it's worth visiting if only to see the somewhat kitsch Virgin Mary at the end of the promenade.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Forty Foot

Skinny-dipping in the city Sandycove
Beside the Tower
Dublin, Leinster
Ireland
+353 1 605 7700 Named not for its size but because the 40th Regiment of Foot used to be stationed in a battery above it, the Forty Foot was a men-only swimming hole for years, where nude bathing was the rule. Times being what they are, women and families are now allowed and the bathing place has now assumed a new atmosphere - and a new modesty ensues! A nearby sign reads: "togs required by order"! If you still want to bathe au naturel, note that a small section is reserved for nude swimming.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Lambay Island

Early Christrian island Lambay Island
Dublin, Leinster
Ireland
+353 1 605 7700 (Dublin Tourism) Located some 16km off the Dublin coast, Lambay Island was originally one of Ireland's early Christian monasteries, looted by Viking raiders in 795AD. Now privately owned, Lambay is home to a medieval castle, a bird sanctuary and a herd of about 200 deer. Due to its deep surrounding waters, the island is a particularly popular location for scuba-divers. The island is accessible only by prior permission from Rogerstown Harbour, 27km north of Dublin in Rush.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Martello Tower (James Joyce Tower)

Buck Mulligan's house Sandycove
Dublin
Ireland
+353 1 280 9265 The Martello Tower is one of 15 defense towers originally built to protect the Irish coastline from invasion by Napoleon. The tower now holds a museum devoted to the life and work of James Joyce, who made it the setting for the first chapter of his sprawling epic novel Ulysses. Joyce himself briefly stayed at the tower in the early 1900s as a guest of Oliver St. John Gogarty, who became a model for Buck Mulligan, the first character to make an appearance in the novel. The museum contains some of Joyce's personal correspondence, photographs and a very special edition of Ulysses illustrated by Matisse. The annual Bloomsday Joycean pilgrimage on June 16th also starts from here.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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O'Connell Street

Dublin
Ireland
The main artery of Dublin's city centre has been sadly neglected in recent years, but now seems due for revival. This should not, perhaps, prove too difficult: all of O'Connell Street's main institutions remain in place: the Gresham Hotel, Clery's department store, Eason's bookshop and the Gate Theatre. O'Connell Street is also home to Dublin's most potent symbol - the General Post Office (GPO). In 1916, the GPO served as headquarters of the Easter Rising, and the proclamation of the Irish Republic was read from its steps. Georgian Parnell Square, the Dublin Writers Museum and the fine Hugh Lane Municipal Museum of Art are the other major points of interest in this area. Close at hand, the elegant James Joyce Centre is housed in a fine Georgian townhouse. North of O'Connell Street, in the Drumcondra area of the city, lies the Botanic Gardens, complete with impressive glasshouses and a riverside walk. East of O'Connell Street lies Custom House Quay, set on fire by Sinn Fein supporters in the turmoil of 1921. Custom House is the eighteenth-century masterpiece of architect James Gandon and was long considered a powerful symbol of British colonialism. While the building now houses government offices, sections of the elegant interior are open to the public. West of O'Connell Street, the city quays continue to the Four Courts, seat of the Irish justice system. Also designed by James Gandon, it survived damage in both the 1916 Rising before being extensively damaged in the Civil War of 1922. The building houses the High Court and Supreme Court of Ireland and, unfortunately, only the central atrium is open to the public. Behind the Four Courts lies Smithfield Village,Many small cafes and restaurants have sprung up here in recent years, alongside Ceol, the museum of Irish music through the ages. The centrepiece of the area, however, is the impressive National Museum at Collins Barracks,- emphasizing Ireland's recent history.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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