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MAC Genoa - Alleyways of the Historic Centre
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The historic centre starts at Lanterna, encircled by the gradual development of the city that has spread into the surrounding areas. In front of the Stazione Marittima, is the sumptuous Palazzo Doria Pamphily del Principe, which was once the residence of the great Admiral Andrea Doria. Continuing from here, you will reach the Principe Railway Station where the route into the largest historic centre in Europe begins. The splendid Church of S.Giovanni di Pré is worth visiting, as is the annexed Commenda di Pré, which was formerly a hospital and a lodging for knights on their way to the Holy Land. This leads to the picturesque Via Pré; or visitors can choose to follow the monumental Via Balbi, where only one family lives, to visit, Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Reale, and the Palazzo della Università. Piazza della Nunziata is nearby, whose name derives from the Chiesa della SS.Annunziata del Vastato, which is in this square. It has a neoclassical façade and rich, seventeenth century frescoes inside. From here, go down through Via delle Fontane to the medieval Porta dei Vacca (o di S.Fede), an old entry into the walled city from the west. Via del Campo near here, is famous for the song by F. De André, and leads to Piazza Fossatello, the commercial heart of the district. In the side street of Via Lomellini is the precious Oratory of S. Filippo Neriand the next-door Church of S. Filippo Neri, which face the house where G. Mazzini was born, now the home of the Museum of the Risorgimento and the Mazzinian Institute. Hidden in the narrow caruggi, or alleyways is the Abbazia di S.Siro, first cathedral of the city, where there is a plaque commemorating the miracle of San Siro who liberated the city from the Basilisco, a horrendous, monstrous demon. From here, go down to Via S.Luca, where there are numerous noble palaces and leads to the square with the same name, dominated by the Church of S.Luca. Take a small deviation to the National Gallery of the Palazzo Spinola, an important museum which reconstructs the atmosphere, furnishings and even, the kitchens of a period residence. At the end of the street is Piazza Banchi, an old grain market, and the home of the sixteenth century, Loggia dei Mercanti o di Banchi and the Church of S.Pietro in Banchi, built above the shops. From here, walking towards the sea, one arrives at the Palazzo S.Giorgio, the first home of Genoese power, where Marco Polo dictated his Travels. Nearby, the picturesque and colourful Via di Sottoripa is an old, porticoed, street, built to protect the houses and workshops from powerful waves.







Copyright 1999-2005 Wcities, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Contact Wcities

Commenda di Pré


An old refuge for crusaders and pilgrims
Piazza della Commenda, 1
Genoa 16126
Italy
+39 10 26 5486
This building was founded around 1000AD as a hospital, or as a refuge for the crusaders who had been sent to the Holy land. Afterwards, it became a shelter for pilgrims going to Jerusalem or Santiago di Compostela. It is attached to the neighbouring Church of Giovanni di Pre'". The three level open gallery gives the building its character. The "Commenda" has kept some of its medieval features. There are spherocubical headbands on the ground floor. On the middle floor there is 15th century wooden flooring which is decorated with prints. On the third floor there are wonderful frescoes with battle insignia and coats of arms from the nobility, as well as the part of the building which belonged to the apartment of the Knight commander. It's interesting to note that up until 1731 people could only go into the two churches of S.Giovanni through the Commenda. This was administered by the Jerusalemite Knights (and from 1420 by the Knights of the Order of Malta). It has never been understood however what criteria were needed to be allowed admittance into each of the churches. (perhaps it was divided by gender, or, more probably, according to the wealth of the pilgrim). Visits are possible on special occasions and by appointment.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Commenda di Pré photo by wcities
Photo: wcities
 

 
Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Reale


A true palazzo
Via Balbi, 10
Genoa 16126
Italy
+39 10 271 0236
The Gallery is inside the 17th century building by Stefano Balbi. It was then enlarged by the Durazzo family before passing to the Savoy kingdom in 1824. It is the most important example of a stately home in Genova. This is largely due to the enormous size and splendour of the building. After you have had a look at the peaceful hanging gardens created in 1739, you will come to the monumental staircase which was created to go up to the aristocratic floor. The rooms there are richly decorated with frescoes, paintings and stuccoes. They still contain many of the original furniture and picture galleries. You can also see the Battle room, the Veronese room, the splendid Mirror room (the boast of the building) the Throne room, the audience room, with the famous canvasses by A.Van Dyck Portrait of Caterina Durazzo. There are the King and Queen's bedchambers and the Tapestry room and the remarkable Ballroom. You can then go onto the terrace where there is a stupendous view of the old city and of the port up to the Lanterna. One curious thing about the building is that it is today the regional seat of the Ministry for Cultural Heritage. It was chosen out of the whole of Savoy both for its beauty but also for the fact that it has private access to the sea. There is a bridge which has been specially constructed but which was demolished in the 60's during the construction of the raised street.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Reale photo by Nick Henneberry
Photo: Nick Henneberry
 

 
Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Spinola


Paintings and banquets in a stately home.
Piazza Spinola di Pellicceria, 1
Genoa 16123
Italy
+39 10 247 7061
The house was given to the state in 1958 by the last of the Spinola line on the understanding that it would be used as a National gallery. The palazzo is a wonderful stately home, comparable with the impressive Galleria Nazionale in the Royal Palace. The rooms are rich with frescoes by artists like L. Tavarone, L. De Ferrari and S. Galeotti. They have preserved their atmosphere as the residence of a patrician. This numbered many Italian works of art in its collection including works by Grechetto, A. da Messina, G. Reni, G.C. Procaccini, il Tintoretto, B. Strozzi, L. Cambiaso, D. Fiasella and D. Piola.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Spinola photo by wcities
Photo: wcities
 

 
Gate of the Cow


The gate to the old city
Via del Campo
Via delle Fontane
Genoa 16124
Italy
This gate corresponds in appearance to the Porta Soprana or of S.Andrea (XII secolo), (12th century). It was the main western access to the city, near the now destroyed St. Faith's church. Built at the same time as the walls to defend the city from invasion by the Barbarossa forces, it consists of two semi-circular towers, linked by a crenellated arch with sharp curves. In the eighteenth century these features were incorporated into the neighboring buildings. The name "Vacca" (cow) has a determined origin: it refers to the family who once lived there.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Gate of the Cow photo by wcities
Photo: wcities
 

 
Lanterna


The symbol of Genoa
Via San Benigno
Genoa 16149
Italy
+39 0102465346
http://www.provincia.genova.it...
This is known throughout the world as the emblem of Genoa. It is built on a rocky outcrop, the remains of Promontorio Hill which has been quarried for centuries for stone with which to build the city. The Lanterna was built in 1543 on the site of an earlier lighthouse. It has always kept the seafaring people safe, enabling them to direct their boats towards a safe harbour from 33 miles away. Legend has it that the Republic government assassinated the architect by making him jump from the top of the lighthouse so that he couldn't build a similar lighthouse for a rival city. The 120 metre tower is in all Genoese's hearts, and when they see it they know that they are at home. If you can manage to climb the 375 steps to the top of the lighthouse you will be rewarded with a splendid view over the port and the whole bay. After a year of closure the lighthouse is now open to everyone. It is necessary to book in advance.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Lanterna photo by Andrea Beggi
Photo: Andrea Beggi
Lanterna photo by Francesca Grillo
Photo: Francesca Grillo
Lanterna photo by dinoled
Photo: dinoled
Lanterna photo by Ciccio Pizzettaro
Photo: Ciccio Pizzettaro
Lanterna photo by Margherita
Photo: Margherita
Lanterna photo by luigino visconti
Photo: luigino visconti
Lanterna photo by Luca Rosacuta
Photo: Luca Rosacuta
Lanterna photo by Lennart Kluge
Photo: Lennart Kluge
Lanterna photo by Marco Pucciano
Photo: Marco Pucciano
Lanterna photo by enrico1024
Photo: enrico1024
Lanterna photo by Silvia Molinari
Photo: Silvia Molinari
Lanterna photo by Paolo Brocco
Photo: Paolo Brocco
 

 
S. Filippo Neri Oratory


Concerts under the frescoes
Via Lomellini 10
Genoa 16123
Italy
Next to the Chiesa di S.Filippo Neri, the oratory can be accessed from either number 10 Via Lomellini or directly from the sacrestry of the church. Built between 1749 and 1755 as a place for quiet meditation, it is incorporated into the convent of the Padri Filippini, the façade of which was moved. It was perhaps designed by G B Montaldo: the floors are elliptical with choir pews around the walls, banisters, and finely crafted walnut arches which, together with the doors and the large shutters at the windows, constitute admirable examples of Genovese baroque. The ceiling is completely covered in golden stucco with a coloured background. Both this and the frescoed apse are the work of J. A. Boni, with paintings by G. Diavolo. Not to be missed is the painting of St. Philip in ecstasy, by the Flemmish artist S. Dubois, and above all the magnificent statue of the Immaculate Conception (1670) by P. Puget, who also created the famed altar of the nearby Abbazia di S.Siro and many other works in Genova. In addition to its role as a convent, the oratory once functioned as a Public Institute of Music, then as a school, but today is a much loved auditorium for classical concerts.

Review © 2007, Wcities
 

 
S. Giorgio Palace


Beautiful frescoes in 13th-century palace
Piazza Caricamento
Via Frate Oliverio
Genoa 16124
Italy
The palazzo was the seat of the city's power at the time it was built, between 1260-62. It was then transformed into a customs office, housing the powerful St. George's Bank for four centuries, before it moved to its current location at the Autorità Portuale. It consists of two distinct parts, of which the medieval element was restored by d'Andrade in the 19th century, while the lively frescoes in the 16th-century wing have been only recently cleaned and restored, according to the original designs. Inside, apart form the beautiful 17th-century statue of the Virgin Mary in the courtyard, it is worth noting the momument to Francesco Vivaldi, the rich 14th-century merchant who invented the moltiplico (modern cumulative interest) and the five marble chests (one for each bank office) in which the so called lettere orbe, or anonymous indications of the malfunctioning of the various offices, were put. The Venetian Marco Polo was a prisoner of the Republic of Genova, dictated his famous "Milione" here, to Rustichello form Pisa.

Review © 2007, Wcities
S. Giorgio Palace photo by Massimo Strazzeri
Photo: Massimo Strazzeri
S. Giorgio Palace photo by www.locomotivagroup.net
Photo: www.locomotivagroup.net
S. Giorgio Palace photo by Tim Brown
Photo: Tim Brown
 

 
S. Giovanni di Pré Church


A pilgrim church
Piazza della Commenda, 1
Genoa 16126
Italy
This church is connected to the neighbouring Pre' insignia building. Building work was begun in 1180 with pre-Lamica masters, a fact which is commemorated by a plaque on the wall. It has recently been restored by the Ministry for cultural heritage. There are two churches, one of which stands over the other which are mutually independent from one another. The smaller church, with three naves, occupies the central nave of the larger one. This has a splendid Romanesque belltower with three levels of three-light windows and a pyramid-shaped spire. There has been an entrance in the apse of the larger church since 1731 when the Knights of the Order of Malta allowed entry to the more civilised members of the public. The inner church is intimate and quiet. It contains the remains of an important series of frescoes that have recently been brought to light.

Review © 2007, Wcities
S. Giovanni di Pré Church photo by Francesca Albini
Photo: Francesca Albini
 

 
S. Pietro in Banchi Church


A church built on top of shops.
Piazza Banchi
Genoa 16124
Italy
The church is near the ruined city gate which shares its name, at the site of the old grain market. The main entrance to the city was here in the ninth century. What is most interesing about this church is that is was built on a terrace that is above a row of shops. Using bonds, the Genovese built these shops, so that the very expensive rent from them might help pay for the cost of building the church. It was built according to the plans of B. Cantone, G. Ponzello and il Vannone. Work was finished in the second half of the sixteenth century. Il Vannone was also the architect of the Loggia for the Merchants or the bankers. The church also was given the name "S.Maria Immacolata", thanking the Madonna for the end of a plague. In front of the church there is a beautiful flight of steps. The church itself has a central plan with a large octagonal cupola and four spires, one of which is missing. It is a copy of Church of Santa Maria Assunta in Carignano. The outside of the church is decorated with frescoes from the seventeenth century which have been recently restored. Inside, there are precious stuccoes and frescoes by M. Sparzo, A. Semino, A. Ansaldo and P.G. Piola.

Review © 2007, Wcities
S. Pietro in Banchi Church photo by Harry Mills
Photo: Harry Mills
 

 
S. Siro Church


The main cathedral of the city
Piazza San Siro
Genoa 16124
Italy
Built in the 4th century as the first cathedral of the city, it was dedicated to the 12 apostles. In 1008 it became a Benedictine Abbey and the current architectural layout dates from the beginning of the 17th century, after a fire in 1580 destroyed a large part of the structure. The neoclassical facade houses a church with three naves, frescoed vaults and stucco which is the work of various members of the Carlone family, including Taddeo, Giuseppe, Tommaso and Giovanni Battista. As well as works by D. Fiasella, G. De Ferrari and D. Piola, there is also the beautiful painting of the Annunciation here by O. Gentileschi and the splendid main altar, in black and bronze marble, which is a baroque masterpiece by Pierre Puget in 1670. The Roman belltower of the cathedral can be spotted in old pictures of Genoa, but it was pulled down as it was deemed to be unstable after the collapse of the belltower of S. Marco in Venice in 1904 and was unfortunately never rebuilt. The old, adjacent cloister, can not be visited and was transformed at the beginning of the century into public baths and sauna, according to art nouveau style.

Review © 2007, Wcities
S. Siro Church photo by Bernd Zillich
Photo: Bernd Zillich
S. Siro Church photo by Tim Brown
Photo: Tim Brown
 

 
SS. Annunziata del Vastato Church


Beauty in Genova
Piazza della Nunziata, 4
Genoa 16124
Italy
This church was originally built in late gothic style by the Franciscan monks on the foundations of an earlier church. The noble Lomellini family who made their fortune trading in coral then renovated it between 1591 and 1650. It is built in the shape of a Latin cross and divided into three naves with two rows of lateral altars. This church has been called a 17th century Genoese Gallery because of its lavish interiors of inlayed marble, gilt stucco, and frescoes illustrating the mysteries of the Annunciation, all created by a selection of 23 local artists and 13 sculptors (such as G.and G.B. Carlone, D. Fiasella, A. Ansaldo, G. Assereto and G. Benso). Moreover, there are works of art by D. Piola, G. De Ferrari, L. Cambiaso, B. Strozzi, G.C. Procaccini and others still. The strange name Vastato comes from vastinium, a safety belt within the protective bastions that was left free during medieval times for military purposes. In fact the Barbarossa belt, dating back to 1155-61 sits directly opposite the church.

Review © 2007, Wcities
 

 
University Palace


Frescoes and books
Via Balbi, 5
Genoa 16126
Italy
+39 10 2 0991
Founded as a Jesuit college in 1634, today this is the main University site. It is an extraordinary example of a productive use of the hillside behind, featuring a panorama of stairways, galleries and hanging gardens, like in the Palazzo Doria Tursi on the Via Garibaldi, modelled on the work of the architect Bartolomeo Bianco. The splendid Aula Magna, richly frescoed by G.A. Carlone, is certainly worth a visit. The University Library nearby is housed in the former Jesuit church of S. Francesco Saverio, with frescoes by D. Piola, partially hidden by the bookshelves. Admission:Free.

Review © 2007, Wcities
 

 
Via Balbi


A road for a family
Via Balbi
Genoa 16126
Italy
Conceived at the beginning of the seventeenth century as an imitation of the Strada Nuova (Via Garibaldi), this road was in fact built for a single family, the Balbi, who owned the entire area. The Balbi decided to create their "district" here, having increased their fortunes dramatically after the beginning of the silk trade, due to a sequence of entrepreneurial activity abroad (in Anversa and Spain), after having arranged several marriages of convenience with other rising families. To achieve this, they commissioned the architect Bartolomeo Bianco to build several of their sumptuous palaces, as well as to design the streets named by them. In an urban regeneration which took most of the seventeenth century, several residences were constructed: the Palazzo di Gio Francesco Balbi, that of Giacomo and Pantaleo Balbi, today the Palazzo Balbi Senarega of the University of Genoa, the Palazzo of Francesco Maria Balbi, that of Stefano Balbi, later Durazzo, which today houses the Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Reale and the Falcone Theatre, the Palazzo of Gio Agostino Balbi now named Cattaneo Adorno, the church of Saints Jerome and Frances Saverio and the Jesuit College, today the Palazzo dell'Università and university library, and finally St Charles' church.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Via Balbi photo by belinketeneghe™
Photo: belinketeneghe™
Via Balbi photo by Marina S
Photo: Marina S
Via Balbi photo by matright
Photo: matright
 

 
Via del Campo


The street sung by De André
Via del Campo
Genoa 16124
Italy
Made famous by the song of F De André, this continues the ancient Roman road which gave access to the city from the west. The name 'Campo' derives from the fact that this area was an orchard, like the nearby Via di Pré (meadows). before development within the city walls during the 12th century. The Porta dei Vacca (o di S Fede) remains as a testimony to the ancient area. The historic medieval architecture underwent modifications and resoration in the 16th and 17th centuries, yet the original medieval features of the buildings are still visible in the decorative stonework revealed by recent restoration. Today, the Via del Campo still represents the most authentic of the alleyways, dark winding streets and alternative locations in which interesting characters keep a lively trade going, especially in the colourful markets, including the famous 'Shanghai', where you can buy absolutely anything.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Via del Campo photo by Umby
Photo: Umby
Via del Campo photo by Alessio Pizzorno
Photo: Alessio Pizzorno
Via del Campo photo by Mike
Photo: Mike
 

 
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