Schmap Madrid Old Madrid

Madrid - Old Madrid
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Many of Madrid's older districts were completely demolished between the 18th and 20th centuries to make room for new apartment buildings and office blocks. However, the district known as Los Austrias (referring to when Spain was a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire) dates from the 16th and 17th centuries and it's a spectacular sight at night when the street lamps give the narrow winding alleyways an eerie, old-world feel. Day or night, it's one of the most attractive parts of Madrid.

Start at the pera metro station. You'll emerge on to a remodelled square behind the recently refurbished Teatro Real (Opera House), which finally re-opened in 1997. The Plaza de Oriente stands opposite the Opera House and beyond it you can see the Royal Palace. The Royal Family no longer lives in the 18th-century building and it's now used for official functions and as a museum. The Plaza de Oriente is lined with elegant café like the café de Oriente, an ideal spot to sit and relax.

On your way down to the Royal Palace, turn left and you'll pass the Almudena Cathedral. This controversial church is still considered unfinished by many. Take the first right downhill and you'll see some remains of the old Moorish defensive wall that was only rediscovered recently during renovation work and now serves as a backdrop to outdoor theatre productions in spring and summer.

Returning up Calle Bailn, cross over to Calle Mayor and you'll see the 17th-century Palacio del Duque de Uceda on your right. It now serves as a headquarters for the military Chiefs of Staff. One block further up, you'll find the Plaza de la Villa, home to Madrid's Town Hall building, which dates from the 17th century. The square is surrounded by palaces that are now used by the city administration, such as Casa de Cisneros (16th century), Torre de los Lujanes (15th century), Palacio del Cordn and Casa de Ivn de Vargas. The Casa de Cisneros is a particularly fine example of plateresque architecture. The best time to visit the square is at night.

Take the narrow, winding Calle Cordn and cross over Calle Sacramento to Calle Segovia and you'll see the round shape of the Iglesia de San Pedro. The Papal Nuncio once had his official residence in this area and some of the former ecclesiastical buildings have been turned into cafés and restaurants, such as the café del Nuncio and the Taberna de los 100 Vinos (a good restaurant in what were stables). This area has been gentrified recently but still maintains some of its old charm. The Plaza de la Paja, where straw (paja) used to be sold, is a pleasant spot to take a break. The nearby Capilla del Obispo is a Gothic building with a Renaissance altarpiece that's worth visiting.

From here, you can pass through a series of pretty squares, including San Andrs and Puerta de Moros (Moor's Gate), on your way to the Plaza de la Cebada (Barley Square). This area has been taken over by bars, restaurants and outdoor café. Street performers and musicians entertain the crowds that visit on sunny afternoons and weekend nights.

Take Calle Cava Baja (not Cava Alta) and you'll end up at Madrid's most attractive square, the Plaza Mayor. This street was once full of small hotels and restaurants. The restaurants are now a little more upmarket than they used to be, but it's still a great place to try new tapas. One of the most famous bars is the Posada de la Villa, an inn dating from the 17th century. On the other side of Calle Segovia from here, you'll see a cement cross in the middle of a little square. The square is called Puerta Cerrada (Closed Gate) because the gate that stood here was closed to keep beggars from entering the city.

Take Calle Cuchilleros, on your left, until you see the impressive entrance (el Arco de Cuchilleros) to the Plaza Mayor. The restaurant, Las Cuevas de Luis Candelas, named after the famous Madrid folk hero/outlaw, stands on the corner. This street is full of popular taverns and restaurants, in what were once stables and warehouses. The restaurant that claims to be the oldest in the world is here, Botn. Take a stroll through the arcaded square and look in some of the interesting little shops (especially the hat shops) here and in the adjacent streets. There's a statue of Felipe III in the middle of the square.

The Plaza Mayor was once the city's main market place. When Madrid became the capital of Spain and its empire in the 16th century, the square held more important events like religious processions and festivals, the Inquisition's trials and executions, bullfights, and cultural events. Concerts and plays are still performed in spring and summer. There's a stamp and coin collector's fair every Sunday morning. Christmas decorations are sold here during the run-up to the festive season and fancy-dress outfits are on sale in preparation for the Carnival. This square, the heart of old Madrid, is perhaps the heart of new Madrid as well.

Other interesting buildings and parks worth visiting in old Madrid include the Descalzas Reales Convent by the Puerta del Sol, the Iglesia de San Isidro, which used to be a cathedral, and the Monasterio de la Encarnacin, near Plaza de Oriente. There's also the Palacio de Santa Cruz, just outside the Plaza Mayor. Or head for Vistillas Park, just off Calle Bailn before reaching Calle Segovia, which has fantastic views of the old city, the Cathedral, Royal Palace and the Casa de Campo.

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Café de Oriente

Café-restaurant with fantastic views

Plaza de Oriente, 2
Madrid, Madrid 28013
+34 (0)91 541 3974 / +34 (0)91 547 1564
http://www.grupolezama.es/
cafeoriente@grupolezama.es

It is much more than a café. In fact, this is a restaurant that is good enough to have been awarded a Michelin star for its creative and modern style of cooking. The house specials are cod prepared in a variety of ways and duck liver paté. There is a gourmet menu and an excellent wine cellar. The restaurant is built on top of the ruins of an old convent close to the Teatro Real, and tends to fill up after performances and on Sunday afternoons when the outdoor terrace is very popular.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: caribb

Café del Nuncio

Peaceful atmosphere and a historic setting Nuncio 12
Madrid, Madrid 28005
+34 91 366 0853 A relaxed café, decorated in different shades of red, where you can sit and listen to the soft music in peace. It fills up at weekends, especially the outdoor terrace in summer, even though you pay extra to sit there. You would never believe that terrible crimes were committed by the Inquisition in this very square during Spain's Golden Age.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Café del Nuncio photo by wcities
Photo: wcities

Cathedral of the Almudena

Patron saint of Madrid Calle de Bailén
Madrid, Madrid 28013
+34 91 542 2200
http://www.archimadrid.es/prin... Madrid's cathedral took over 100 years to build, due to political conflicts, wars and a lack of financial resources. According to legend, it's named after the Virgen de la Almudena, whose icon was found during the Reconquest hidden in a house that the Arabs called al mudena. The building's exterior is an example of eclectic 19th-century design. The doors are bronze and there's an image of the Virgen (now Madrid's patron saint) on the façade. The interior is full of light, benefitting from the stained-glass windows and multi-coloured ceiling. Its grand Grezing organ gets played on Sundays, holidays and the day before holidays.

Mass: 10am & midday Mon-Fri; 6pm & 7pm Sat & days preceding public holidays; 10.30am, midday, 1.30pm, 6pm & 7pm Sun & hols.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Church of St Isidore

Paintings, baroque decor and tomb of San Isidro Toledo, 37
Madrid 28005
+34 91 369 2037 The interior contains some outstanding artwork including an altarpiece by Sebastián Herrera and paintings by Claudio Coello, Herrera and Ricci. The decor is baroque, there are numerous side chapels, barrel vaulting and a huge dome. The façade features large built-in columns, a portico and a vaulted niche containing sculptures by Juan Pascual de Mena. It's also known as the Colegiata de San Isidro, as it was part of a college founded by the Jesuits in the 16th century. The remains of Madrid's patron saint, San Isidro, lie here.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Church of St Isidore photo by wcities
Photo: wcities

Cuevas de Luis Candelas

Dedicated to legendary local outlaw Calle de los Cuchilleros 1
Madrid, Madrid 28005
+34 91 366 5428
http://www.lascuevasdeluiscand...
info@lascuevasdeluiscandelas.com You can't miss the doorman here, elaborately dressed to imitate 19th-century local outlaw, Luis Candelas. The tavern is under one of the archway entrances to Plaza Mayor. The interior is a faithful representation of an old country inn and it is always full of tourists who cannot resist the temptation of entering a real time capsule. The bar serves excellent Pinchos (canapés) and the restaurant serves up typically hearty Castilian fare. It specializes in roasts from a wood-fired oven, such as Suckling Pig or Tender Lamb. The Callos (tripe) will fill you up sufficiently. There's a good selection of fine Spanish wines to choose from as well.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Museum of the Descalzas Reales

16th and 17th-century works of art Plaza de las Descalzas 3
Madrid, Madrid 28013
+34 91 521 2779 This convent's museum houses an important collection of paintings, sculpture, tapestries and precious metalwork donated to the order during the reigns of Carlos I and Felipe II. Highlights include paintings by Zurbarán, Rubens and Titian, a sculpted sepulchre of Emperatriz María by Crescenci, Juan de Mena's sculptures and Leoni's marble mausoleum. It first opened to the public in 1960 and won the European Council's special Museum of the Year award in 1987. The 16th-century convent is home to a religious community of Franciscan nuns belonging to the order of St. Clare. Admission: EUR4.20; students, over-65s & under-18s: EUR1.80. Free for EU citizens on Wednesdays.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Guillermo Hernán Gómez López
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Palacio de Santa Cruz

Old Madrid's prison Plaza de la Provincia, 1
Madrid, Madrid 28012
The building most representative of the architectural style popular during the Hapsburg reign has an attractive façade, main entrance, towers and interior patios. It was built as the royal jailhouse in the 17th century and famous personalities like playwright Lope de Vega, bandit Luis Candelas and General Riego were imprisoned here. You'll find it in one of the most characteristic areas of old Madrid close to Plaza Mayor. It's now used as headquarters for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. It is not open the public.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Plaza de Oriente

A large square opposite the Royal Palace Palacio Real
Madrid, Madrid 28005
+34 91 588 2900 (Tourism Office) Located opposite Palacio Real (Royal Palace), this is the city's largest, most elegant and peaceful square. It's a semi-circle of landscaped gardens planted with many varieties of trees and flowers. Statues of medieval kings line one of the walkways and Felipe IV takes centre stage. The horse he sits on was modelled on a Velázquez drawing. It's an attractive pedestrianized area with an underground car-park below and many smart cafés with outdoor terraces to choose from. The Teatro Real (Opera House) is just round the corner.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Plaza de la Cebada

Trendy bars and restaurants Plaza de la Cebada
Madrid, Madrid 28005
This square has become one of the most picturesque and trendy venues in the city over the last few years. It's surrounded by popular tapas bars, pubs and restaurants. There's a great fresh produce market on one side and if you head along Calle Cava Baja, you'll find some excellent restaurants. Look out for Calle Almendro and the famous tavern with the same name. It's not far from Plaza de Cascorro, heart of the popular Sunday street market, or Rastro.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Plaza de la Paja

A hidden square to spend some time in Capilla del Obispo
Madrid, Madrid 28005
+34 91 588 2900 (Tourism Office) A remainder of medieval Madrid, it's name comes from its use at that time. This was the square where the Bishop auctioned off the straw (paja) brought from his farmland near Plasencia in the province of Cáceres. You'll find the Capilla del Obispo (Bishop's Chapel) in the next door Plaza de los Carros. Have a look at its outstanding altarpiece, tombs and doors. A stage is set up in Plaza de la Paja during the Paloma festival where people dance in the traditional madrileño style called chotis. There are some good bars and an excellent Russian restaurant (El Cosaco) round here.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: little_beanda

Plaza de la Villa

Atmospheric medieval square La Casa de Cisneros
Madrid, Madrid 28005
It's surprising to find such a quiet spot in Madrid. This square doesn't seem to have been affected by the passage of time and it's easy to imagine yourself in a by-gone era. It's surrounded by 15th to 17th-century aristocratic mansions that have been taken over by the Town Hall. The Lujanes tower is one of the oldest buildings in the city and features impressive stone and brickwork and three coats-of-arms decorating the doorway. Benlliure's statue of Álvaro de Bazán, commander of the Spanish Armada, graces the centre of the square. You can take a walk from here through the old town.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Royal Monastery of the Incarnation

Madrid's baroque religious art Plaza de la Encarnación, 1
Madrid, Madrid 28013
+34 91 454 8800
http://www.patrimonionacional.... The outstanding sights in this monastery are the choir area, the main cloister, the bronze and marble sepulchre, the paintings of the Bourbon royal family, and the chapel's frescoes. However, it is best known for the miracle that happens here every July 28, when the congealed blood of Saint Panthaleon that is kept in a small container miraculously becomes liquid. The building is a fine example of post-Herrera baroque architecture (Herrera was also responsible for El Escorial Monastery).

Review © 2007, Wcities

Royal Monastery of the Incarnation photo by wcities
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Sun Gate

Literally the centre of Spain Plaza Puerta del Sol
Madrid, Madrid 28013
Puerta del Sol (Sun Gate) is the most popular and commercial area in the old town. Five hundred years ago it was just another city gate with an image of the sun drawn on it, hence its name. Nowadays, the square is famous for being the center of the national road network. The plaque on the pavement outside the old Post Office building denotes 'kilometer 0'. The distance between Madrid and every other part of Spain is measured from here. Thousands of revelers gather in the square once a year to await the chimes of the clock that officially announces the New Year.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Teatro Real

Grand Opera House Plaza de Oriente, s/n
Madrid, Madrid 28013
+34 91 516 0660
http://www.teatro-real.com
info@teatro-real.com Madrid's Opera House has one of the largest stages in the world and seats up to 1630 spectators. Its annual programme features the whole range of operatic styles and genre from the baroque to the contemporary, including the ever-popular work of composers like Mozart, Rossini, Verdi and Wagner. It also hosts lyric concerts and dance performances. You'll find it close to the Palacio Real (Royal Palace). Tickets are hard to come by, so book early.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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