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MAC Madrid - Intellectual Madrid
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What did Ernest Hemingway, Po Baroja and Cervantes have in common? They were all regulars of an area of Madrid called the Muses, Parnassus, or "Enlightened Madrid", today better known for the countless number of bars, taverns and restaurants around Plaza Santa Ana and Calle Huertas.

If you take the metro to Sol and leave by the Calle Carretas exit, you'll come out at the Puerta del Sol. Here, you'll see the famous clock tower, whose chimes officially announce the New Year on Spanish TV and radio. The statue of Carlos III is across from the clock tower, and the emblem of Madrid, the bear and arbutus tree (el oso y el madrono) is behind the statue.

Take the first right on to Calle Carretas, continue on until the large Jacinto Benavente square and then turn left on to Calle del Prado (also called Plaza del Angel), walk a couple of blocks and you'll come to Plaza de Santa Ana, the start of the literary tour.

The square is full of bars and restaurants and the area in general is crowded and lively at night. Many writers, painters and intellectuals have lived and worked here and have been inspired by their surroundings.

The recently renovated hotel, Reina Victoria, on your left-hand side is popular with bullfighters who like to stay here when fighting in the Madrid ring. To your right is a small street called San Sebastián where you'll find a church of the same name. It has been mentioned in many literary works, including Prez Galdos' Misericordia. Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer, a Romantic poet, was married here, and the church archives hold the death certificates of Cervantes, Lope de Vega and Ruiz de Alarcn, among others.

The most famous bar in the square is the Cervecera Alemana, which you'll find next to the Teatro Español. It's a quaint old-fashioned café; where people sit, relax, read the newspapers and have a bite to eat.

Continue along Calle del Prado to Calle Echegaray and there, on your left-hand side, is Los Gabrieles. Each room of the bar is wonderfully decorated in colourful ceramic tiles depicting a different scene. The most famous room has a recreation of Velzquez's painting Los borrachos (The Drunkards). This is a café; by day and a lively bar by night.

Two blocks further on you'll see Calle Huertas on your right-hand side. During the day it looks like any other street in this part of Madrid. At night, however, it's transformed into a row of lively music bars. It's very noisy and congested with cars and people. When the bars start to close at about three o'clock in the morning, and people start heading home, local residents often resort to throwing buckets full of water on the rowdiest passers-by. You have been warned.

On your way to Calle Huertas, you'll cross Calle Infante. Turn down this narrow street, walk to the end and you'll come out where Calle Cervantes and Calle Len meet. This is where Cervantes lived during the last few years of his life. Unfortunately, his house was demolished in the 19th century. He was buried in the grounds of the Trinitarias Convent on Calle Lope de Vega. The grounds are only open to the public on special occasions. Cervantes wasn't the only famous writer to live in this neighbourhood. Góngora, Quevedo and Lope de Vega lived here too. Lope de Vega lived at number 11 Calle Cervantes and his house has been turned into the Lope de Vega House and Museum, where you can even visit the vegetable garden that he loved.

A little further down Calle Cervantes is Calle Quevedo, where Góngora lived in a small rented house for more than six years. Eventually, Quevedo bought the house and evicted Góngora. The two writers really hated each other.

Head back to Calle del Prado, and look for number 21 where you'll find the Ateneo, built by a group of liberal intellectuals in 1835 as a centre for cultural activities. Pío Baroja and other writers were frequent visitors. It still houses one of the best periodical collections and libraries in Madrid, and holds exhibitions and other events.

Finally, you should stop in at Filmoteca (Cine Dor), a cinema that shows foreign films, often focusing on the careers of famous directors like Kurosawa, Bergman and Wilder. The bookshop is one of the best in the city, and there's a pleasant cafeteria in the inner patio. The cinema is located near Anton Martín metro station at number 3, Calle de Santa Isabel.







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Casa de Lope de Vega


A classical writer's home
Calle de Cervantes 11
Madrid, Madrid 28014
Spain
+34 91 429 9216
Lope de Vega was born in Madrid in 1562 and became one of the 17th century's major dramatists, along with Calderón de la Barca. This is the house where he lived from 1610 until his death in 1635. Those 25 years were a troubled period in the writer's adventurous life. He was banished from Madrid for eight years because he wrote insulting poems about Elena Osorio (the daughter of an important theatrical impresario) with whom he had a five-year relationship. She eventually abandoned him for a wealthy lover. The two-story house is ironically located in Calle Cervantes and has been arranged to represent the historical period in which the writer lived. It first opened to the public in 1935.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Casa de Lope de Vega photo by K Friedman
Photo: K Friedman
 

 
Cervecería Alemana


Chat, eat and meet the world
Plaza de Santa Ana, 6
Madrid, Madrid 28012
Spain
+1 34 91 429 7033
One of the best known bars in Madrid, it has catered for world famous celebrities like Frank Sinatra and Ava Gardner in its time. It hasn't changed much since then and still offers a charming combination of old-fashioned decor - marble-topped tables, dark-paneled walls - old-fashioned waiters and good food at reasonable prices. The best time to come and get a real sense of the place is in the morning or early afternoon before all the tourists flood in. It's a trip back in time and you'll find it in attractive Plaza Santa Ana.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Cervecería Alemana photo by Gabriella Alu'
Photo: Gabriella Alu'
Cervecería Alemana photo by Margarita Haruspex
Photo: Margarita Haruspex
Cervecería Alemana photo by Francisco P. Alvarez
Photo: Francisco P. Alvarez
Cervecería Alemana photo by Joanna Holowenko
Photo: Joanna Holowenko
 

 
Filmoteca Española


Film buffs only
Santa Isabel, 3
Cine Doré
Madrid, Madrid 28012
Spain
+34 91 467 2600
It shows film series organized by theme (director, country of origin, etc.) that you would never now get to see in a commercial cinema. Most of them are shown in their original language with Spanish subtitles. Its two comfortable screening rooms hold 318 and 119 spectators. There are three daily showings in screen one (starting at 5:30p) and screen two offers one showing (6p). No eating or drinking is allowed in the screening rooms. It's housed in a lovely modernist building dating from 1929 that also has a bookshop and bar-restaurant. Admission is (EUR 1.35) daily and (EUR 10.21) for 10 films.

Review © 2007, Wcities
 

 
Gabrieles


Breathe the Andalusian atmosphere
Echegaray 17
Madrid, Madrid 28014
Spain
+34 91 429 626 / +34 91 526 6069
One of Madrid's long-established flamenco clubs that exudes character, it has always attracted celebrities. The bullfighter Manolete was a regular, and film star Ava Gardner used to come here a lot searching for excitement whenever Sinatra was not looking. Flamenco shows start at 10pm. The music is an up-to-date mix of flamenco, funk, and salsa. If you come during the afternoon and early evening, you will find the place to be relaxed and welcoming, as it doesn't really get going until after 10pm. A drink costs around EUR5.40.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Gabrieles photo by leoncito
Photo: leoncito
 

 
Plaza de Santa Ana


A favourite meeting place
Puerta del Sol
Madrid, Madrid 28012
Spain
Come here any weekend night and you'll find the place buzzing. It's a popular meeting place for locals and tourists alike as it's close to Puerta del Sol and surrounded by nightlife venues. It has a statue of playwright Calderón de la Barca in the centre and garden areas round about. The neoclassical Teatro Español building and the art deco Hotel Victoria (a favourite with bullfighters) are both here. As for drinks, the Cervecería Alemana is a good place for a relaxing chat, and then there's the Villarosa (which featured in Pedro Almodóvar's movie High Heels), once a flamenco dance hall, it's now a trendy bar. The history of the square dates back to the times of Joseph Bonaparte who demolished Santa Ana Convent to open up this space.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Plaza de Santa Ana photo by mallol
Photo: mallol
Plaza de Santa Ana photo by Desiree Onievas Lopez
Photo: Desiree Onievas Lopez
Plaza de Santa Ana photo by Josangel_ap
Photo: Josangel_ap
Plaza de Santa Ana photo by Mariana Miranda
Photo: Mariana Miranda
Plaza de Santa Ana photo by Roger Wong
Photo: Roger Wong
Plaza de Santa Ana photo by Marco Palumbo
Photo: Marco Palumbo
 

 
Sol


Madrid
Spain
The heart of it all! You should start your tour of the city at the lively Puerta del Sol. Expect to find wonderful 19th-century buildings, shops, cafés, bars, restaurants and crowds at this busy central intersection. From here, head up Calle Mayor to Plaza Mayor, Plaza de la Villa and the old historic district. Or you can take Calle Arenal and visit the Palacio Real (Royal Palace) and Teatro Real (Opera House). If you go up the Carrera de San Jerónimo, you'll come to the Prado Museum. Or stroll down Calle Alcalá past the impressive row of banks to Retiro Park.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Sol photo by Steven
Photo: Steven
Sol photo by Cassidy Norvell
Photo: Cassidy Norvell
Sol photo by Steven
Photo: Steven
Sol photo by Anthony Jennings
Photo: Anthony Jennings
Sol photo by Daniel Lobo
Photo: Daniel Lobo
Sol photo by David Miraut Andrés
Photo: David Miraut Andrés
Sol photo by Alberto Tobias
Photo: Alberto Tobias
Sol photo by Manuel Rojo
Photo: Manuel Rojo
Sol photo by Valle Gañán
Photo: Valle Gañán
Sol photo by Marta Ribeiro
Photo: Marta Ribeiro
Sol photo by Ernesto Rapetti
Photo: Ernesto Rapetti
Sol photo by Juan Fernández
Photo: Juan Fernández
Sol photo by josejoaking
Photo: josejoaking
Sol photo by Ray Gutierrez
Photo: Ray Gutierrez
Sol photo by Rai Robledo
Photo: Rai Robledo
 

 
Sun Gate


Literally the centre of Spain
Plaza Puerta del Sol
Madrid, Madrid 28013
Spain
Puerta del Sol (Sun Gate) is the most popular and commercial area in the old town. Five hundred years ago it was just another city gate with an image of the sun drawn on it, hence its name. Nowadays, the square is famous for being the center of the national road network. The plaque on the pavement outside the old Post Office building denotes 'kilometer 0'. The distance between Madrid and every other part of Spain is measured from here. Thousands of revelers gather in the square once a year to await the chimes of the clock that officially announces the New Year.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Sun Gate photo by Luis
Photo: Luis
Sun Gate photo by Dorian Cols
Photo: Dorian Cols
Sun Gate photo by Jordi Motlló Borrella - Cien de Cine
Photo: Jordi Motlló Borrella - Cien de Cine
 

 
Teatro Español


Classic drama in a prestigious theatre
Príncipe, 25
Madrid, Madrid 28012
Spain
+34 91 429 6297
Madrid's oldest theater belongs to the Town Hall, it holds up to 733 spectators and specializes in staging works by Spain's major classical, romantic and contemporary dramatists. The building has a neoclassical façade featuring impressive windows, pillars and busts of famous playwrights. You'll find it on busy Plaza de Santa Ana. Advance ticket sales: from the box office and by telephone, on +34 902 101 212 for group sales and +34 91 429 9193 or +34 91 429 6293 for individuals.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Teatro Español photo by Aaron Sporer
Photo: Aaron Sporer
Teatro Español photo by Jake McKenzie
Photo: Jake McKenzie
Teatro Español photo by _Xenia_
Photo: _Xenia_
 

 
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