Schmap Maui and Molokai Neighborhood Guide

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Maui and Molokai - Neighborhood Guide
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Many people have remarked upon the verdant Valley Isle's resemblance to a woman. Whether you see it or not, this island certainly nurtures plenty of men, women and children from various parts of the world.

West Maui

The jolly, busy resort town of Lahaina resembles Main Street Disneyland in many ways. Front Street, the main drag area, is wall-to-wall art galleries and fine restaurants. Dozens of pleasure cruisers and fishing boats set sail from the harbor daily, carrying vacationers to nearby coves and reefs. Lahaina is also the hot spot for shopping and nightlife.

About 10 minutes' driving distance from Lahaina is the resort community of Ka'anapali, famed for its golf courses, beaches and fantasy hotels. The golf courses are easy to spot; as you drive down the Honoapi'ilani Highway, the rolling greens stretch for acres along the landbound side. The coast side is bordered by famous Ka'anapali Beach. While its golden glory has been much diminished by over-enthusiastic land developers who built hotels as near to the shorebreak as possible, the beach is still quite lovely. The water is warm and clear, and landmark Black Rock dominates the skyline.

Further down the coastal highway one will find the charming seaside towns of Kahana, Kapalua and Napili. The golf courses of Kapalua are also widely renowned; serious golfers may choose to fly into the Kapalua airport, stay at the Kapalua Bay Hotel or the Ritz Carlton Kapalua, and completely bypass the rest of the Maui experience.

South Maui

Approximately 30 minutes from West Maui is the other main tourist area, known as South Maui even though it's actually further west than south. The uppermost segment of South Maui is Kihei, site of many mid-priced hotels and swimming beaches. This is a very popular spot with families; it's affordable, safe, and offers all kinds of diversions. Locals also frequent the South Kihei strip, particularly the Kamaole Beach Parks and the Azeka shopping centers.

South of Kihei is Wailea, one of the most breathtaking resort communities in the world. The air is perfumed with island blossoms, the beaches (all of them public-access) are white sand, and the resorts are architectural wonders. Marvel at the palatial Eastern-themed Kea Lani Resort or the understated elegance at the Four Seasons Resort. The last hotel on Alanui is the Maui Prince. After that, the road travels along through a few miles of dry underbrush and weeds that give some indication of what South Kihei looked like before it was developed. About five minutes down the road are the three turn-offs to Makena State Park, thought by many to be the world's best swimming beach.

Upcountry

The tiny towns in Upcountry Maui are the opposite of Wailea and Lahaina in every way. Laid-back, local, simple and friendly, they are populated by an odd mix of islanders, white locals, eccentric recluses and passionate nature lovers. Protea farms, cattle ranches and botanical gardens thrive on most of the land, while the "towns" are usually comprised of a few streets with a handful of stores and a couple of restaurants. Makawao and Pukalani are the two largest upcountry towns. Nestled in the mountains is the town of Kula. Most Haleakala downhill bike rides begin or end in Kula, as do many roadtrips to Hana. Olinda and Haiku are "blink-and-you'll-miss-it" towns, worth visiting only if one prefers birdsong to human conversation.

(One thing to keep in mind when visiting Upcountry is that as the elevation rises, the temperature drops—so bring a sweater.)

Haleakala/Hana

While Haleakala and Hana are two of Maui's major tourist attractions, almost no tourists stay in either of the areas. Hana has a couple of hotels, but it's impossible to lodge at Haleakala National Park; most of it is volcanic crater or scientific research zone. These regions are undeveloped and somewhat dangerous. It's fine to drive the main roads or to explore backroads with a guide, but venturing off alone into the Hana rainforest or the Haleakala crater is one of the silliest things a person can do.

Still, no trip to Maui is complete without a Hana or Haleakala experience. The twisty road to Hana is as famous as the epic waterfalls at journey's end. The sunrise over Haleakala is truly inspirational—as any fan of Jimi Hendrix's "Purple Haze" knows. People who can't get enough of Hana's beauty might opt to stay in the tiny jungle town. In that case the lodging options range from the inexpensive Aloha Rainbow Cottage to the world-class Hotel Hana Maui.

While the adorable seaside town of Paia is not in Hana—or anywhere near—it is probably the town that is most often passed through on the way to the rainforest. This town is a destination in itself. It is arguably the world's top windsurfing location. It's also home to some fabulous art galleries, clothing boutiques and restaurants. Anyone who wonders what ever happened to the '60s should visit Pa'ia—it seems to be stuck in them.

Central Maui

While some travel writers rave about the untouched-by-tourists appeal of Hana, the truth is that Hana's main industry is tourism. Central Maui is the place that offers authentic local color. Compared with the rest of the island, it's decidedly un-lovely. Even semi-touristy Kahului is choked with asphalt and chain link, while Wailuku is, at first glance, a cluster of dilapidated buildings that seem to be under a constant black cloud. However, Kahului is the closest thing to a city that Maui has, and Wailuku is the county seat. Across the Mokulele Highway is Ma'alaea, an up-and-coming town known for its picturesque harbor and its near-constant winds.

Perhaps the main appeal of Maui is the way it manages to have a little bit of everything. It is simultaneously an undeveloped jungle and a bustling town. By offering the perfect combination of secluded natural beauty and sophisticated commercial appeal, this little island manages to touch a special place in everyone's heart.

North Shore

The North Shore of Maui offers a refreshing change from the ordinary vacation. Between exotic recreational opportunities, a peaceful and natural setting, and a diversified cultural environment, this is not your typical vacation spot. The North Shore (encompassing Paia, Kuau, Sprecklesville, Haiku and Huelo) has both pros and cons compared to the more popular west and south areas. On the positive side you will enjoy a relatively unspoiled tropical setting and be close to rainforest hiking trails, waterfalls, world class windsurfing, and uncrowded beaches. While there are plenty of shops and restaurants, there is a welcome absence of commercialization and high-rise development. Accommodations will be small-scale, privately-owned B&B or vacation rentals, where you can become acquainted with your hosts and have more access to an authentic experience of island culture. You will be conveniently situated for a day trip to the remote jungle village of Hana, or a visit to the crater of the dormant volcano. Unfortunately, few north shore properties offer direct beach access, so it will be a short drive to reach the white sand. For those of you who must have your creature comforts and round-the-clock service, North Shore will be roughing it. Imagine, no 24-hour room service, no night life within walking distance, and it will rain! (after all, it is a jungle). Maybe you'll find North Shore a hardship, but if you are tough enough then this is the ideal island getaway. Check out Maui Tradewinds for accomodations on the North Shore.

Molokai

Moloka'i is often called the most Hawaiian of all the islands. There are a few reasons it has this reputation. First of all, a higher percentage of full-blooded Hawaiians live here than on any other island except Ni'ihau. Second, the way of life on the island remains almost untouched by modernization or commercialization. Time marches on in Moloka'i, but it does it so slowly and gracefully as to be almost unnoticeable. The third reason has to do with the attitude of people on the island. Almost all of them display a genuine "Aloha Spirit" that is impossible to find in any other place in the world. People aren't just polite on this island; they're warm. Shopkeepers aren't professional; they're genuinely interested in being helpful. It's an amazing thing to behold, especially for mainland city dwellers, and it is the reason why Molokai's nickname is “The Friendly Isle”.

Unlike O'ahu, Maui, Kauai and the Big Island, Moloka'i does very little advertising. It does not have any regular tourist publications, and only the largest businesses are registered with the Convention and Visitor's Bureau. It prefers to remain a hidden treasure.

The island of Moloka'i is rich in history, culture and legend. Even the most jaded of travelers has to admit that this tiny island offers a more complete and unique experience than almost any other place in the world.

Kaunakakai--South Moloka'i

Since the wharf is in the town of Kaunakakai, it's usually the first place any visitor sees upon reaching Moloka'i. It's a charming little town, easy to navigate and quickly familiar. A handful of restaurants, shops and services are downtown, most of them on Ala Malama (the main street). Just outside of town is Hotel Molokai, a longtime favorite of visitors to the Friendly Isle. Molokai Outdoor Activities is inside the hotel; this is a good place to go for inexpensive car rentals, kayak or bike rentals, or guided tour planning.

Upcountry Moloka'i

About 15 minutes' driving distance from downtown Kaunakakai is the tiny settlement of Kualapu'u. Several major island attractions are scattered around this area. Closest to Kualapu'u is the coffee plantation. Further along the road one will find Ironwood Hills Golf Course; just next to it is an old sugar mill which is open for tours. People who find the sugar mill interesting will definitely not want to bypass the Molokai Museum & Cultural Center, located a few minutes up the road. From the museum, it's just a quick trip up to Pala'au State Park on the north end of the island. A few miles away from Kualapu'u is Purdy's Macadamia Nut Farm. This is another educational, fun place to visit.

West Side

The farther west one goes, the more arid Moloka'i becomes. While some people consider the tropical east side to be more picturesque, there's something calming and aesthetically pleasing about the rolling hills and cultivated pastures of West Moloka'i. The Molokai Ranch covers 60,000 acres around Maunaloa Town; 100 horses and several hundred head of cattle roam the empty hills. Hiking and biking trails are numerous. The town of Maunaloa has a single grocery store, a movie theater, two restaurants and a stately lodge owned by the Ranch. The town is quaint and quiet, although it does seem to have been built according to a specific pattern just a few years ago.

If one takes the Kaluakoi Road turnoff just before reaching Maunaloa Town, it's easy to notice the surrounding land become ever more desert like. Kaluakoi is a little oasis in the middle of this barren area. Quaint condominium resorts are sprinkled throughout the district, while a lush green golf course stretches from the inland desert to the blue sea. Papohaku Beach (located three miles south of Kaluakoi) is a sun-worshipper's dream-come-true. It's a three-mile strip of soft sand that's usually empty of people.

East Side

Most day tours explore the eastern coast of the island. This is the tropical side of Moloka'i. It is crisscrossed by green valleys and dotted with historical churches, ancient fishponds, and other sites of interest. Most people stop for a swim and sunbathing session at Murphy's Beach Park, also known as Twenty Mile Beach Park because it's just off the 20-mile marker. The drive along the coast after leaving the park is reminiscent of Maui's Road to Hana because of the twisting road and the stunning views.

On the eastern tip of the island is Pu'u O Hoku Ranch. It spans 14,000 acres of certified organic land. The ranch is just below Halawa Valley. Lanikaula Grove, a sacred burial spot, is on the northern tip of the ranch.

Northern Moloka'i

The northern side of the island is completely undeveloped, except for an isolated community at the tip of the Kalaupapa Peninsula. From Pala'au State Park on the northwestern side, it's possible to gaze down onto the peninsula, but the only way to access it is via a strenuous guided mule ride or an expensive (also guided) air tour. The peninsula and the surrounding area are part of Kaluapapa National Historical Park, a protected area with a long, sad history. This was the site of the Moloka'i leper colony, and the home of famous Father Damien. The few inhabitants of this land choose to remain isolated from the rest of the world. Damien Tours is the only company that is allowed to give ground tours of the area.

The Kalaupapa Peninsula is shadowed and protected on the east side by 4,000-foot cliffs. These are the highest sea cliffs in the world, and render the North Shore inaccessible by anything other than an airplane. Boats go to the base of the cliffs during the summer (in fact, Ma'a Hawai'i has a great hike/swim/boat tour), but it is too dangerous to make the trip during the rough months of January and February.

Lana'i

Lana'i is the sixth largest of Hawaii's islands, which is to say, it is the smallest of the accessible islands. It has a population of around 3,000 people. Every Hawaiian island has a nickname; Lanai's used to be "The Pineapple Isle" because 16,000 acres (more than 90 percent of its land) were used to grow pineapples. Recently, brochures and maps began to refer to the island as "The Private Isle," because of its secluded, quiet nature. The Expeditions Lanai ferry brings day-trippers from Maui regularly, and tourists pay top dollar to stay in the two major resorts, but aside from those developments, the island remains fairly cut off from civilization.

Publicity brochures might lead one to believe that the island is nothing except a giant developed resort district. That couldn't be further from the truth. It is still 98 percent privately owned, and though the owner has allowed two hotels to be built on the island, the majority of it remains untouched. Much of Lana'i is like a blank slate. It isn't covered in black lava rock like the Big Island or covered in greenery like Kaua'i. It's just an empty expanse of sparse brown grass, red earth and blue sky, criss-crossed here and there with dirt roads and dotted with fields. The highway that leads to town is simply a windy two-lane road, while the harbor is the size of a lakeside harbor in any county park on the mainland.

Wherever one goes in Lana'i, there are two rules to remember: stick with the marked trails. Secondly, remember that this privately owned island is covered in natural landmarks and ancient religious sites—please have plenty of respect for it.

Lanai City

Interestingly, most of Lanai's development has taken place in the center of the island. This is the opposite of the other islands, where most people live on the coasts. It is a 20-minute ride to Lanai City from the harbor. The residential part of the town is approximately six blocks by 12 blocks. All of the stores and restaurants are grouped in the middle, around the perimeter of Dole Park. There are two grocery stores, a few general stores, one clothing boutique and a gift shop. Three restaurants serve breakfast and lunch. Hotel Lanai is a popular evening hangout.

If the cars and trucks were removed from city streets, Lanai City would look like a town of the 1920s. Old men laze about in the sun, children play in the ditches to the side of the road, and the stores sell everything from hammers to hunting knives to cases of soda. A few tourists are often out on the streets or in the local restaurants. Visitors from neighbor islands look somewhat amused by it all, while mainland residents just look confused.

Koele

A mile away from Lanai City and a world away from reality is the Lodge at Koele. Even native Hawaiians get a bit misty-eyed at the sight of Koele. It's nestled in the hills and surrounded by pine trees. The grounds of the hotel and the golf course are so perfectly maintained that they appear airbrushed, and the interior seems to have been magically transported from an Alpine mountain or Bavarian forest.

About a mile behind Koele, at the old Lanai cemetery, is the trailhead for the Munro Trail. This is a famous hiking and four-wheeling path, but it's arduous at the best of time and treacherous at the worst. During the autumn and winter rains make the trail inaccessible. The Luahiwa Petroglyphs are approximately three miles from Koele, and can be reached in a 4x4 vehicle.

Manele Bay/South Lanai

One mile from Manele Harbor is Lanai's other fantasy resort, the Manele Bay Hotel. It is the equal and the opposite of the Lodge at Koele. Situated on a private strip of oceanfront land, the hotel is the quintessential tropical retreat. Even when it's raining all over the island, it's usually sunny at Manele. Guests of the hotel stroll about in swimsuits and sarongs—until the sun goes down, at which point semi-elegant clothes are suggested. Since the Lanai Conference Center is onsite, this hotel usually gets most of the conference groups.

If an unwary driver doesn't take the correct turn on the highway, they'll end up at the island's other harbor, Kaumalapau. There isn't much here, but the view off the harbor is spectacular.

North Lana'i

All of the west side of Lana'i and most of the north shore is inaccessible, unpopulated and empty. There are a few tourist attractions that can be reached in a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Driving northwest from Koele, one will reach the Kanepu'u Preserve, site of a dryland forest. Past the forest is the Garden of the Gods, an eerie canyon full of rock formations. After this point the trail becomes even rougher. If you want to reach the North Shore, you'll have to pull over at some point and walk the remaining distance to the Polihua Beach. This desolate strip of white sand is a nesting ground for sea turtles. It's a good hiking beach, but strong currents make it unsafe for swimming.

Keomoku Road bisects the island, dead-ending at the north shore on Shipwreck Beach, another popular tourist destination.

East Lana'i

Over the past two hundred years, various people tried to inhabit parts of Eastern Lana'i. For one reason or another all attempts failed, leaving only ruined buildings for posterity. The most striking example of this can be found at Keomoku Village, accessible on the coastline trail by 4x4 vehicles only. A few old, empty buildings and a restored church are all that remain of a once-thriving sugar plantation village. Halepalaoa Beach (also called Kahalepalaoa), on the eastern tip of the island was once used as a shipping wharf by the old sugar traders. At present it's an isolated beach, sometimes suitable for swimming.

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Haleakala/Hana

Maui and Molokai
United States

While Haleakala and Hana are two of Maui's major tourist attractions, almost no tourists stay in either of the areas. Hana has a couple of hotels, but it's impossible to lodge at Haleakala National Park; most of it is volcanic crater or scientific research zone. These regions are undeveloped and somewhat dangerous. It's fine to drive the main roads or to explore backroads with a guide, but venturing off alone into the Hana rainforest or the Haleakala crater is one of the silliest things a person can do. Still, no trip to Maui is complete without a Hana or Haleakala experience. The twisty road to Hana is as famous as the epic waterfalls at journey's end. The sunrise over Haleakala is truly inspirational--as any fan of Jimi Hendrix's "Purple Haze" knows. People who can't get enough of Hana's beauty might opt to stay in the tiny jungle town.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Eric Eisenhart

Photo: Rob Will

Photo: Alice Kao

Photo: Kevan Cooke

Photo: Alice Kao

Photo: Leah Meyer

Photo: Daniel Boyle

Photo: J S Collado

Photo: Timothy Hitch

Photo: Maria Ruvalcaba

Photo: John White

Photo: Shu-sen Chang

Photo: Frank Sabatier

Photo: Toby Tennis

Photo: Jerry Logan

Photo: Ian Reid

Photo: Anita Wilcox

Photo: Paul Gillin

Photo: Teri Taylor

Photo: mauisue721

Haleakala/Hana photo by Maharishi Mahesh

Photo: Maharishi Mahesh

Photo: Erik Riccardi

Photo: Ryan Gurr

Photo: Projek

Haleakala/Hana photo by Hilary Goldblatt

Photo: Hilary Goldblatt

Photo: Alex Calvin

Lanai

Maui and Molokai
United States
Interestingly, most of Lanai's development has taken place in the center of the island. This is the opposite of the other islands, where most people live on the coasts. It is a 2-minute ride to Lanai City from the harbor. The residential part of the town is approximately six blocks by 12 blocks. All of the stores and restaurants are grouped in the middle, around the perimeter of Dole Park. There are two grocery stores, a few general stores, one clothing boutique, three restaurants and a gift shop. Hotel Lanai is a popular evening hangout. If the cars and trucks were removed from city streets, Lanai City would look like a town of the 192s. Old men laze about in the sun, children play in the ditches to the side of the road, and the stores sell everything from hammers to hunting knives to cases of soda. A few tourists are often out on the streets or in the restaurants.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Sabrina Sexton
Photo: The Design Foundry
Photo: Phil Smith
Photo: Sherry Mosley
Photo: Christy Dawn Maxey
Photo: Joel Krieger
Photo: Nick
Photo: Kelly E. McDaniel

Photo: Erin Brown
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Photo: DENNIS BIGBEE
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Photo: Jonathan M. Jones

Molokai

Maui and Molokai
United States
Known as "the most Hawaiian isle," Molokai is a cultural and historic treasure trove. Take a mule ride to Kalaupapa, walk on miles of white sand and visit the birthplace of hula while spinner dolphins and sea turtles play just offshore.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Monica Flores
Photo: Christian Dahlhausen
Photo: Tasia Markoff Aaron
Photo: B Kimler
Photo: accessmypage

South and Central Maui

Maui and Molokai
United States
The uppermost segment of South Maui is Kihei, site of many mid-priced hotels and swimming beaches. This is a very popular spot with families; it's affordable, safe, and offers all kinds of diversions. Locals also frequent the South Kihei strip, particularly the Kamaole Beach Parks and the Azeka shopping centers. South of Kihei is Wailea, one of the most breathtaking resort communities in the world. The air is perfumed with island blossoms, the public beaches are white sand, and the resorts are architectural wonders. Central Maui is the place that offers authentic local color. Compared with the rest of the island, it's decidedly un-lovely. Even semi-touristy Kahului is choked with asphalt and chain link, while Wailuku is, at first glance, a cluster of dilapidated buildings that seem to be under a constant black cloud. However, Kahului is the closest thing to a city that Maui has.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Eric Eisenhart
Photo: Paul Tearnen
Photo: C. Anthony Smith
Photo: Kristen Poynton
Photo: sharon padgett

Other Schmapplets in this city related to "Maui and Molokai - Neighborhood Guide"
Maui and Molokai
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Maui and Molokai - Art & Entertainment
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