Schmap Montpellier Historical Background

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Montpellier - Historical Background
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Montpellier Home
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The history of Monte pestelario is a story of twists and turns that highlights the two essential characteristics of this fascinating city: ambition and intelligence. A former trading post for spices, place of pilgrimage and centre of learning in the fields of medicine and law, Protestant fief then Royal capital of the Languedoc region, Montpellier's strategic position in the heart of the Mediterranean basin has ensured it constant prosperity. Now the prefecture of the Hérault département, it's a city that never ceases to amaze!

From Modest Beginnings...

Montpellier is very much a young upstart of a city when compared to its venerable roman neighbours of Nîmes and Narbonne. The first settlement dates back to the late 10th century and passed into the hands of the Guilhem family who remained the city's rulers until the early 13th century. Situated south of the roman road, the via Domitia, and close to well-travelled salt and pilgrim routes, the early settlement grew rapidly in the 11th century as it became a favoured halt for pilgrims. At the end of the 12th century the now flourishing city was enclosed by city walls of which the Tour des Pins and the Tour de la Babotte are still visible remnants.

...to a Medieval Metropolis

A prosperous trading centre between Northern Europe, Spain and the Mediterranean, the 13th century saw the city reach something of an apogee as it passed under the tutelage of the King of Aragon, whose kingdom extended across what is now Northern Spain and Catalonia, and subsequently the Kings of Majorca. Reputed as a centre of learning particularly open to Jewish and Islamic thought, the established Schools of Medicine and Law received recognition as a University by Pope Nicholas IV in 1289. Sold to the kingdom of France in 1349, Montpellier was for a while considered the second most important city in the kingdom. However, the latter part of the century was a sombre one, during which successive plagues accounted for the death of over a third of the population. Nevertheless, by the 15th century the city had recovered economically, notably through the flourishing of the nearby port of Lattes and the mercantile genius of the royal treasurer Jacques Coeur, whose name is still honoured by the city.

A Protestant Stronghold During the Wars of Religion...

During the 1530's, both the astronomer Nostradamus, famous for his prophecies, and the writer, priest and bon vivant Rabelais studied medicine at Montpellier. The faculty later benefited from the establishment of France's oldest botanical garden Jardin des Plantes during the reign of France's king Henri IV. In 1553, the city gained a cathedral as the Bishopric was permanently transferred from Maguelone, whose abandoned abbey can still be seen overlooking the Mediterranean less than 10 miles from Montpellier. The Protestant Reformation, however, gained many converts in Montpellier as elsewhere in the south of France. As a major Huguenot (as French Protestants had come to be called) stronghold, Montpellier possessed one of the most beautiful Protestant churches of its time, but the subsequent Wars of Religion destroyed all religious edifices within the city walls except for the fortress-like Cathedral St Pierre. The Edict of Nantes of 1598, which recognized the right of Protestants to worship and granted them other basic freedoms in certain designated towns and cities, resulted in a brief period of relative calm, but conflict once more erupted twenty years later in the last of the religious wars. Finally in 1622 the king of France Louis XIII oversaw the siege of the rebellious Protestant city, which resisted two months of bombardment before a negotiated settlement was reached. Royal rule was once again established and the return of Catholic domination of the city was finally ensured by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685.

...Becomes the Royal Capital of the Languedoc

Many features of the current City Centre have their origin in the Wars of Religion and the subsequent 17th and 18th century renovations that transformed the city. Many squares such as the Place Jean Jaures and Place Chabanneau were formed from destroyed churches, while the citadel built following the siege of 1622, was to guarantee the loyalty of the city to the crown rather than to ensure its protection. Montpellier was subject to further expressions glorifying the monarch such as the Arc de Triomphe as it became the royal capital of the Languedoc and the accompanying nobility were responsible for many of the most elaborate hôtels and distinctive architecture of the historic centre. Other landmarks such as the Hôtel St Côme and the Promenade du Peyrou, not to mention the Place de la Comédie all date from this epoch and still shape the life of the city.

A Provincial City Built on Wine...

The development of winemaking in the region during the 19th century helped fuel the economy of the city and led to another wave of urban renovation and renewal. While some of the grandiose projects never reached completion, many are still major features of the city, whether it be the distinctive spire of the Carré St Anne, the incomplete St Roch or the Palais de Justice. Boom was followed by bust as the outbreak of the fungal disease Phylloxera, in the 1890's destroyed over a third of the vines and the expanding vineyards in Algeria rendered the vineyards of Languedoc uneconomical.

...Seeks to Become a New Metropolis

An unassuming provincial city for most of the 20th century, Montpellier has been transformed into a city of expansive ambitions and a growth rate to match. In the 1960's the population rose by over a third as ex-patriots and immigrants arrived from Algeria. Over the past twenty years, Montpellier has continued to grow under the uncompromising vision of the socialist mayor, Georges Frêche, and the city once ranked 25th is currently the 8th largest city in France. This rapid growth has been matched by increasingly lavish and distinctive projects, from the entirely new, neo-classical district of Antigone and the developments along the river Lez, to the rejuvenation of the City Centre and the return of the tramway to the city streets. An administrative centre, doted with a major research, university and medical facilities, Montpellier seems determined to once again becoming an intellectual, cultural and technological centre of Europe and the Mediterranean.

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Arc de Triomphe

Gateway for a king

Place de la Comédie
Montpellier 34000
France

Erected in 1691, this monument is one of several built to glorify the monarchy. The carved medallions, dating from 1773, celebrate the achievements of king Louis XIV of France. A small door under the vaulted archway provides access to the interior of the monument and a staircase winds up to the rooftop terrace for a magnificent view of the city. Contact the Office du Tourisme for information on opening times. Free visits are organised on Journées du Patrimoine (heritage days) in September.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Liz Albertson

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Babotte Tower

Medieval tower favoured by star gazers Boulevard de l'Observatoire
Montpellier 34000
France
This 26 metre high tower is one of only two surviving towers (the other is the Tour des Pins) of the medieval city ramparts that once encircled the city. In the 18th century the tower was transformed into an observatory by the Académie Royale des Sciences in order to study a total eclipse of the sun. The tower subsequently underwent various modifications including the construction of the distinctive turrets and upper lodge, and the opening of the lower gateway in 1795. Today the tower serves as a meeting place for the astronomical society of the region.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: Peter Curbishley

Botanical Garden

France's oldest botanical garden 163, rue Auguste-Broussonnet
Montpellier 34000
France
+33 467 63 4322 This garden was created in 1593. Today, the garden is a peaceful haven from the hustle and bustle of the surrounding metropolis. It contains a wide variety of both indigenous and exotic species, as well as several trees that date back to when the garden was founded. The paths intertwine on different levels, and the garden contains several small follies, canals, grottoes and many busts of bearded botanists. Other features of this beautiful garden include an Orangery, tropical greenhouses, a bamboo garden, rock gardens and even a small duck pond. Admission is free.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Citadel

A citadel to threaten a city Rue Argencourt
Montpellier 34000
France
+33 467 60 6060 Following the siege of 1622, the city of Montpellier conceded to the demand of the new governor of the city to construct this vast fortress in which to accommodate his troops. Situated on a rise just outside the old walls, the citadel dominated the city and was a guarantee of royal power over Montpellier. The citadel served as a barracks and a prison, but since 1955 the site has been occupied by the Lycée Joffre. A part of the outer fortifications are still visible today. The site is accessible via the bridges from the Jardin des Champs de Mars or by the Rue d'Argencourt which turns off from Avenue Jean Mermoz. Admission: Free

Review © 2007, Wcities

City Centre

Montpellier
France
The vibrant historic centre of the city, referred to as the "Ecusson", encapsulates the varied aspects of this diverse city. A pedestrian paradise and a car-owners nightmare, the labyrinth of lanes is a rich storehouse of historic architecture, churches and hidden courtyards as well as diverse shops, bars and restaurants. Of the city walls, the Tour des Pins and the Tour de la Babotte are the sole survivors of twenty-five towers that once encircled the city. The main streets meet around the Prefecture and the covered market, Halles Castellane, while the nearby bars of Place Jean Jaures remain crowded until late into the night. For a more intimate rendezvous, seek out the tiny Place St Ravy or elegant Place de la Canourgue.

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: David Rivier
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Hôtel St Côme

From anatomy to commerce Place St Côme
Montpellier 34000
France
+33 467 10 2400 This elegant building bearing the name of the patron saint of doctors and surgeons was constructed in the mid-eighteenth century from a design by Jean Antoine Giral. The building was financed by King Louis XV's surgeon and initially served as a surgery school, containing an ampitheatre for the study of anatomy. At the troubled end of the 18th century however, the anatomists were expelled from the city and the building was adopted as the Chamber of Commerce. Take the chance to catch a glimpse of the remarkable vaulted ceiling of the main octagonal-shaped building behind the pillared hall which looks out over Grand Rue Jean Moulin. Admission: Free

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Maguelone Cathedral

Ancient monastery by the sea Villeneuve-les-Maguelone
Montpellier 34750
France
This historic site is situated 4 kilometres west of Palavas between the sea and lagoons on a small rise surrounded by vines. The earliest settlements on this site date from before Roman times. The 11th century saw the building of the monastery that merited being called "the second church of Rome". From the 13th century, however, the power and influence of Maguelone declined and after the bishop's seat was transferred to Montpellier in 1536, the site was gradually abandoned. In the 19th century restoration work began and now a major part of the ancient cathedral is open to the public, offering a peaceful haven from the summer heat. Admission: Free

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Palace of Justice

A palace without a role ? Rue Foch
Montpellier 34000
France
The building whose Corinthian columns face out on to the Avenue Foch was completed in 1853. The palace occupies a site long associated with power and justice. In the 12th century Guilhem VI built his castle on the site to ensure his rule over a rebellious city. During the 16th century the castle housed the Présidial and the site also housed the Imperial court following the French revolution. Most of the functions of the building were recently transferred to the new Palais de Justice by the sides of the Promenade de Peyrou. Admission: Free

Review © 2007, Wcities

Photo: David Rivier
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Peyrou Promenade

A panoramic walkway 1 La Promenade de Peyrou
Montpellier 34000
France
This long, raised promontory extends out from the city centre towards the Arceaux district. From this high point the view extends from the Mediterranean to Pic St Loup and beyond towards the gorges of the Herault to the north of the city. A historic site from where the canons of Louis XIII bombarded the city during the siege of 1622, the Peyrou was also a place of execution during the revolution: the guillotine replacing the statue of Louis XIV. Today the site is much calmer and enhanced by continually changing flower beds and majestic magnolias. A perfect spot for a summer stroll beneath the shade of the many trees while admiring the swooping flight of martins.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Place de la Comédie

Montpellier's main square Place 53
Montpellier 34000
France
+33 467 60 6060 Situated between the train station, the historic city centre and the Polygone shopping centre, this immense, pedestrianised square is the heart and soul of Montpellier. Deriving its name from the first theatre built in the 18th century on the site of what is now the Opéra, this expansive square is the site of major open-air shows and daily street entertainment. At the centre of the square, beneath the handsome facades of the surrounding 19th century buildings, is the fountain of the Three Graces. Guided tours are available for EUR5.9 adults; EUR3.8 children.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Saint Pierre Cathedral

A striking cathedral 6 bis, rue Abbé-Marcel-Montels
Montpellier 34000
France
+33 467 66 0412 Despite lying in a relatively out of the way part of the historic city centre, and unknown even to many residents of Montpellier, the exterior of Saint Pierre Cathedral is distinguished by its twin towers rising above the surrounding buildings. The current entrance is by the unassuming doorway in Rue du Cardinal Cabrières, next to which one can still distinguish the marks of shots fired by Royalist troops in 1815. Worth noting is the recent restoration of 19th century stained glass windows and the many paintings, most notably the demise of Simon le Magicien by Sébastien Bourbon (1621). Admission: Free.

Review © 2007, Wcities

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Tower of the Pines

A rare remnant of medieval walls Boulevard Henri IV
Montpellier 34000
France
+33 467 60 6060 Twenty five tours once reinforced the medieval walls and gateways of the city, of which only two have survived. One of these is this solitary 23 meter high tower standing among cedars in a small park. A Protestant refuge in the 16th century, the tower was used as a prison during the French revolution and now houses the city archives. A plaque commemorates the birth at Montpellier in 1208 of James the Conqueror, King of Aragon. Admission: Free

Review © 2007, Wcities

Tower of the Pines photo by wcities
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Other Schmapplets in this city related to "Montpellier - Historical Background"
Montpellier
Montpellier - Neighborhood Guide
Montpellier - Where to Stay
Montpellier - Dining & Drinking
Montpellier - Art & Entertainment
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