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It may well be the least industrialised city of the Triveneto region and that with the highest average age in the country; it may also be a city whose mottos are "no can do," "leave well enough alone," and "if it ain't broke why fix it?" It may be - as an erstwhile local newspaper editor put it - the Naples of the North, minus the creativity of the Neopolitans'. In short, the city may well have many shortcomings. However, this does not necessarily mean that the fiercely conservative city of Trieste does not know how to appreciate fine cuisine and the good life.

A Central European Crossroads

Historically, Trieste has always been a melting pot of cultures and traditions, stretched out as it is between the sea and the Carso, only several kilometres from the border with Slovenia. The cuisine here has its own unique flavours and characteristics. The cafés and restaurants of central Trieste and the upland plains (the hilly area which lies behind the city) offer typically Central European dishes, a fusion of local cuisine and that of Hungary, Austria and the Slavic countries.

The people of Trieste are crazy about their food. Take away their factories, nightclubs, football team or amusement park; but don't take away their food. Sunday lunches with friends and dinners at the local trattoria (always at reasonable prices) are worth more to them than anything else. In recent years, hordes of tourists have also found this to be true, with a little help from the marketing strategies of the mayor Riccardo Illy (also a successful coffee merchant, capable of selling sackfuls of Arabic coffee all over the world, from the Maldives to Bahrain).

Trieste is not really the sort of place you would happen to pass through due to its location in the northernmost corner of Italy. However, there are hundreds of good reasons to come to Trieste, not least for its cuisine. Prepare yourself then, for a brief guided tour of some of the best eateries in the city.

Near the Piazza dell'Unità d'Italia

If you should find yourself on or around the Piazza dell'Unità d'Italia (the largest seaside square in Europe), pop in to Pepi for a snack. This seemingly unassuming little café has even enjoyed a mention in the New York Times. Here, at any time of day or night, you can try boiled pork, toasted ham sandwiches, sausages with sauerkraut and horseradish and paprika sauces. These can be washed down with either beer or Terrano - a full-flavoured red wine from the Carso region which even has a street named after it. Prices here are relatively low.

Alternatively, you could try Tommaseo or Specchi - two of Trieste's oldest cafés. These both have elegant lounge areas and warm, friendly atmospheres. A word of warning: if you order a capuccino in these parts, you will get what is known in the rest of Italy as as caffè macchiato caldo, served in a small cup with frothy milk.

If however, you would prefer to combine elegance with tradition and modernity with delicious flavours, you should try the Suban trattoria which offers gastronomic delights for carnivores. Even Pope John Paul II has dined here! In an impeccably elegant setting, you will be able to choose from an excellent selection of both international and local dishes including Jota, a hearty bacon rind soup, goulash, tripe, veal stew, bread gnocchi or gnocchi stuffed with jam or prunes, ham and an excellent selection of desserts.

Seafood is a must in a place like Trieste. There are dozens of seafood restaurants here and they are all of the highest quality so you will be spoilt for choice. However, you should definitely visit either the Faro (a trattoria offering magnificent panoramic views of the gulf, set at the feet of the imposing Faro della Vittoria and only a five minute drive from the city centre) or the Nuovo Antico Pavone - an elegant restaurant on the coast. Trieste is a small place, and it is possible to traverse it within half an hour (either on foot or by bus). As you walk across it, you will pass a large number of excellent cafés and restaurants. There are several which are not to be missed, including Stalletta for its cold starters, meat and hotplate dishes and Dardo Rosso for its delicious Steak Tartar - both of these are in the densely-populated working class district of San Giacomo, near San Giusto Castle. Another good place is Stanlio e Ollio - a candle-lit restaurant offering up imaginative cuisine on the Viale XX Settembre, a fifteen minute walk from the Piazza dell'Unità.

Still in the city centre, you should try and pay a visit to San Marco - the large literary café (in Via Battista, parallel to Viale XX Settembre) which was frequented by the writer Claudio Magris and by both Svevo and Saba before him—as well as to Pirona - a small pastry shop on Largo Barriera Vecchia. It is one of the oldest of its kind in Italy and was visted for breakfast by James Joyce every morning between 1910 and 1914. Today it sells a wonderful selection of cream pastries and other delightful Central European sweets such as presnitz (a pastry made from nuts and dried fruit, in the shape of Christ's crown of thorns), putizza (puff pastry) with honey, fave (almond balls with rose oil and cocoa), crostoli, fritole and fritters with pine kernels which are typically made for the carnival.

We can now turn inland towards the upland plains of the Carso, only a fifteen minute drive from the city. It is here that the majority of Italy's Slovenian community lives. Besides being able to enjoy magnificent views and go on memorable walks, you will be able to visit family-run farm shops and osmizze, where farmers can (in accordance what was originally an Imperial decree) sell their own produce, usually in spring and summer.

In many of the small villages around Trieste such as Monrupino, San Dorligo, Basovizza and the charming Muggia (which stands suspended between land and sea in the east of the province), you will be able to try cheeses such as Tabor, home made salami, gnocchi and various meats as well as a selection of regional wines such as Malvasia, Vitovska Garganja and Terrano.

In conclusion, a word of warning: The people of Trieste (escpecially those in the Carso region) are not particularly hospitable and tend to go to great lengths to avoid having to make conversation—perhaps through laziness, or perhaps through force of habit. You have to accept them as they are: slightly mad, rather surly, occasionally good-natured and often anchored to the past, with a penchant for day-dreaming. However, if you get to know them (and Trieste), you will not be able to help but fall in love with this marvellous city which the journalist Julian Evans once described in Condè Nast Traveller as the true capital of the Adriatic in no way inferior to Venice. Bon appetit!







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Al Dardo Rosso


Small trattoria
Via Diacono, 5
Trieste 34137
Italy
+39 40 760 0340
Al Dardo Rosso is situated in a small, dark street in the heart of San Giacomo, but don't let yourself be put off by the area or by the iron door entrance, which seems as though it should belong to an old, run down pub. Be assured that if you decide to try out this little restaurant, you will fall in love with it. The only drawback is the parking, it is extremely difficult to find a place. The atmosphere is warm, pleasant and welcoming. Mara, the waitress, and her husband Giorgio Benedetti, who is always busy in the kitchen, will make you feel at home. This restaurant is suitable for all occasions, for business lunches and dinners or evenings out with your friends. It is best to book as there are only forty places and they go quickly.

Review © 2007, Wcities
 

 
Al Faro


Panoramic restaurant
Scala Sforzi, 2
Trieste 34136
Italy
+39 40 41 0092
This restaurant is located at the foot of the imposing Vittoria lighthouse, facing the gulf, and is the place to try some good seafood dishes and excellent wines. This eatery has great business, mainly due to the desirable location and the resoluteness of the owner, Franco Eichberger, who recently took over the running of this establishment. Now the restaurant has become one of the most highly appreciated places to spend the evening for people of all ages. The terrace is splendid with great views, and can hold around sixty people. The interior is rather less inspiring, having remained the same as it always was. The restaurant is perfect for birthday parties, wedding receptions and christening parties and is also open at lunchtime. Situated on the Friuli road which leads up to Trieste's high plains, it takes about 10-15 minutes to get to the restaurant by car from the city center, and therefore abounds in parking space. The service is friendly and the dishes are simple, but of many different types, ranging from squid in marie rose sauce to sole, from sea-bass in batter to shellfish, and even including some old local specialties. There is rarely any meat except in exceptional circumstances and on request. The wine cellar is very well-stocked thanks to the efforts of the wine waiter, Signor Raimondo, the owner's brother. The recommended sweet, a chocolate or jam swiss roll, should be tried.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Al Faro photo by luca.candini
Photo: luca.candini
 

 
Al Nuovo Antico Pavone


High class restaurant
Riva Grumula, 32
Trieste 34123
Italy
+39 40 30 3899
Al Nuovo Antico Pavone was renovated and relocated a few years ago (hence the name nuovo - new). It is situated on Trieste's shore and offers excellent service and one of the best fish menus in the whole of the city. There is a room which is separate from the rest of the restaurant with space for 10 people, this can be booked for business dinners or special occasions. The restaurant has a small terrace with around 30 places, however it faces onto quite a busy road, even in the evening. In reality you just get used to it, certain delicacies can make you forget everything else. You should try the tagliolini with mullet roe and the pappardelle with scampi and rocket, the best dish in the restaurant in our opinion. For the second course don't miss out on the turbot with lemon. The Catalan cream is extraordinary, the wine list pretty good. To sum it all up, you will go home feeling very satisfied, and the extra lire you may have spent will be worth it.

Review © 2007, Wcities
 

 
Antica Trattoria Suban


Since the last century, a temple of Trieste gastronomy
Via Comici, 2
Trieste 34128
Italy
+39 40 5 4368
This is one of the city's marvels, a temple of gastronomy, a monument, a point of reference: it would be a sin not to eat here if you are in Trieste. The atmosphere is refined, the service praiseworthy. Inside, there is seating for more than 100, and more in the garden. The cuisine is central European with local and modern influences. Among the favorites are the truffle fondue, veal shank, ham in pastry, and the Risotto alle Erbe del Carso. Among the desserts, the Semifreddo di Papa and the chocolate soufflé are sensational. The wine list offers everything and prices are reasonable.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Antica Trattoria Suban photo by wcities
Photo: wcities
 

 
Corso Italia & Barriera Vecchia


Trieste
Italy
This is the commercial heart of the city, situated around ten minutes from the sea. It is characterised by numerous office blocks, fashion boutiques, chaotic traffic and a frenetic pace. From Via Carducci, Via Milano and Via Battisti to Via Valdirivo and Via Fabio Severo (where you will find the Court of Law and the prison)--you will waste precious time caught between traffic lights. An exception is the Viale XX Settembre--a beautiful tree-lined avenue which runs for several kilometres. Along here you will find over half of the cinemas in Trieste as well as a number of excellent ice cream parlours. At the bottom of this street, in the direction of Longera stands the Il Giulia shopping centre, behind which stands the Boschetto (or 'little wood')--an oasis of green in the middle of the city.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Corso Italia & Barriera Vecchia photo by Paolo Tosolini
Photo: Paolo Tosolini
Corso Italia & Barriera Vecchia photo by Mario Di Meglio
Photo: Mario Di Meglio
Corso Italia & Barriera Vecchia photo by Mario Di Meglio
Photo: Mario Di Meglio
Corso Italia & Barriera Vecchia photo by Siavush Randjbar-Daemi
Photo: Siavush Randjbar-Daemi
Corso Italia & Barriera Vecchia photo by Massimo Caregnato
Photo: Massimo Caregnato
 

 
Muggia


Trieste
Italy
This is a small town (one of six) which lies around ten kilometres from the centre of Trieste. It is a seaside town with a strong fishing tradition, and was the last fortification before the state border. It has recently been completely restructured and contains features which are reminiscent of the istroveneto period. Take a walk through its narrow streets, past the fishing boats, which are anchored in its beautiful port. The shops are small and relatively modest, but life here is still extremely pleasant. To get here by sea, you need simply set sail in the opposite direction of Venice. Frenetic building work is now taking place where the glorious shipyards of San Rocco once stood. A giant tourist complex is being built; this will comprise of hundreds of moorings for boats, hotels, sports centres, restaurants and apartments.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Muggia photo by paolodeck
Photo: paolodeck
Muggia photo by Iacopo Sassarini
Photo: Iacopo Sassarini
Muggia photo by paolodeck
Photo: paolodeck
Muggia photo by Bhalchnadra Pujari
Photo: Bhalchnadra Pujari
Muggia photo by francesca
Photo: francesca
Muggia photo by comexe
Photo: comexe
Muggia photo by Alberto
Photo: Alberto
Muggia photo by Francesco Apa
Photo: Francesco Apa
Muggia photo by Roberto Lucchese
Photo: Roberto Lucchese
Muggia photo by cacciaramarri
Photo: cacciaramarri
Muggia photo by Sergio Gardoni
Photo: Sergio Gardoni
Muggia photo by Kari Jo Skogquist
Photo: Kari Jo Skogquist
Muggia photo by macybel999
Photo: macybel999
 

 
Pasticceria Pirona


The cake shop where James Joyce had breakfast
Largo Barriera Vecchia, 12
Trieste 34131
Italy
+39 40 63 6046
This small cake shop has earned its place in the history books from being one of Italy's oldest , but more importantly because between 1910 and 1914 the Irish author, James Joyce, who wrote Ulysses and Dubliners, had breakfast here every morning whilst teaching English at a nearby school. The atmosphere is refined yet cozy (the area spans only a few meters square) and you will feel like you have gone back in time. At the back is a small door that leads to the kitchen where the excellent sweets are prepared. This is Barriera, practically the town center, a few meters from Via Carducci and Corso Italia, streets for shoppers and strollers. When visiting here, it makes a lot more sense to leave the car behind. Having breakfast here is always a great pleasure, although there is nowhere to sit. Drinking excellent coffee you can devour excellent Austro-Hungarian cakes and local specialties such as the honey Ptizzi or the Presnitz (whose shape brings to mind Christ's crown of thorns), the Pinze, the marzipan, the pink nougat, the Trieste honeycomb with almonds, chocolate and rose syrup and the extraordinary cream cakes. So good because they are all made in a special way. Service is always very courteous.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Pasticceria Pirona photo by wcities
Photo: wcities
 

 
San Dorligo della Valle


Trieste
Italy
Val Rosandra lies to the east, somewhere between Muggia and Trieste. It is the most beautiful and evocative corner of the Carso and consists of the extraordinary valley which has been carved out by the Rosandra river. For those who live locally, this is an ideal place for spiritual retreats as well as for spending relaxing Sunday afternoons in the summer. It is spot not to miss, where you will be able to go on delightful walks and take in enchanting views.

Review © 2007, Wcities
San Dorligo della Valle photo by Mario Di Meglio
Photo: Mario Di Meglio
 

 
Stalletta


Artistic restaurant
Via Giuliani, 36
Trieste 34137
Italy
+39 40 76 4543
This is yet another jewel of Trieste's gastronomy hidden, at least externally, by an ugly exterior. It is located on a very unpromising street, on the edge of one of the city's working class districts, San Giacomo. However this restaurant, although it is not particularly well known, is probably one of the ten best restaurants in the city for its refinement and excellent cooking. Don't be fooled by the entrance, it is something else inside.

Review © 2007, Wcities
 

 
Stanlio e Ollio


Restaurant dedicated to Laurel and Hardy
Viale XX Settembre, 59
Trieste 34126
Italy
+39 40 57 7744
Everything in this small restaurant on Trieste's ancient aqueduct, including books, brochures and posters, is dedicated to the two comedians, Laurel and Hardy. The owners even look like them: one thin and the other rather large. The interior is small and quiet, and you eat by candlelight. The cooking is very creative with great attention to detail. The best dish is sliced horse meat, next on the list, the Roman gnocchetti with cream, salami and Pecorino cheese. The desserts are all made in the restaurant. The wine list is good.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Stanlio e Ollio photo by wcities
Photo: wcities
 

 
Valmaura, Servola & San Giacomo


Trieste
Italy
These areas are all in the immediate periphery of Trieste and are for the most part residential districts. Here, you will find the stadium, the new Palace of Sports and the Risiera di San Sabba which was the only Nazi concentration camp in Italy. House prices here are considerably lower than anywhere else, but the area offers few amenities. However, it is only around ten or fifteen minutes away from the city centre. The Servola district, which has unfortunately been polluted by the pungent black smoke from the gigantic railway complex - is also nearby. San Giacomo is fairly self-contained--it has its own shops, nightclubs and restaurants. It is highly valued by its inhabitants, despite perennial parking difficulties and the chaotic traffic. It is also home to the Burlo Garofolo Children's Hospital, which is considered to be one of the best in Italy.

Review © 2007, Wcities
Valmaura, Servola & San Giacomo photo by Simone Lippolis
Photo: Simone Lippolis
 

 
Other Schmapplets in this city related to "Trieste - Dining & Drinking"
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Trieste - Historical Background
Trieste - Neighborhood Guide
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Trieste - Art & Entertainment

Other nearby cities:
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Florence (313 miles)
Munich (327 miles)
Vienna (330 miles)
Milan (360 miles)
Genoa (406 miles)
Rome (426 miles)

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