Vienna - Music and Wine in Grinzing

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All the Viennese have a firm favorite among the taverns serving the latest local wine, but they would rather keep the address to themselves. If you have friends in Vienna, you might be lucky enough to be taken along to such a place, but, for unaccompanied guests, Grinzing is the place to be. Dozens of specialist wine-serving establishments are located all along the sand and cobbled streets and Grinzinger Strae. They have names such as "Bach-Hengl", "Feuerwehr-Wagner", "Martin-Sepp Beisel" and "Zum 6er" and all offer their hundreds of guests an extensive buffet as well as live music and singing.

Originally, such pubs were somewhat simple, intimate, quiet and cheap, and only sold local wines. Today, however, they are besieged by coach-loads of tourists and are fully commercialistic operations. To protect the centuries-old traditions, it became law that real Heurige (Viennese wine taverns) should display a green pine branch and a notice with "Ausg'steckt" written on it in their entrance halls during the few months of the year when they are open. Another means of identifying a true high-quality establishment is a notice displaying the words "Original Wiener Heuriger" (Original Viennese wine tavern).

On a walk through the vineyards, either along the Schreiberbach or over in Kahlenbergdorf, you can follow in the footsteps of Franz Schubert and Ludwig van Beethoven, who were inspired by the then undisturbed nature. Gustav Mahler's last resting place is the Grinzinger cemetery, right next to the final tram stop of Line 38. Mahler, who was responsible for the Staatsoper (State Opera), converted to Catholicism at the beginning of his career in order to be accepted by the anti-Semitic Viennese Establishment. His modern gravestone was commissioned by his widow Alma Mahler-Werfel, who herself is buried nearby. Other well-known "residents" here include the one-armed pianist Paul Wittgenstein (brother of the philosopher Ludwig Wittgenstein) as well as the author Heimito von Doderer.

In nearby Heiligenstadt, easily reached on Bus no. 38A from Grinzing, there are two houses in which the restless Ludwig van Beethoven spent some time: the Beethovenhaus (Pfarrplatz 2) and the Heiligenst dter-Testament-Haus (Probusgasse 6), in which he wrote his famous Last Will and Testament and confessed his deafness to the world. Both houses are open from 9am-12:15pm and 1pm-4:30pm daily







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Staatsoper


World-famous opera house
Opernring 2
Vienna, Vienna A-1010
+43 1 5 1444 2250
http://www.staatsoper.at/
Staatsoper
Grinzing


Historical taverns and magical atmosphere
Grinzing
Vienna, Wien 1190
+43 1 21 1140 / +43 1 22 4555
Grinzing
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